Midrange cabinet
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Category: Plans
Forum Name: Plan Requests
Forum Description: All plan requests here
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=96587
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 8:45am
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Topic: Midrange cabinet
Posted By: samsonrocker
Subject: Midrange cabinet
Date Posted: 06 September 2016 at 11:26pm
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Greetings, I'm building a small soundsystem for home use just to learn a thing or two and then eventually move on to producing with the aim that I should be able to listen back and hear it properly as it would be heard played out. Everything's going fine It's the midrange that's giving me a bit of grief...I'm not too sure what to build. At home I won't likely be able to run scoops so I've got a 2x15 t-line box built by Crystal Vibration which would be used as a kick but can go low enough to cover both sub and upper bass at home. I aimed to cross this over at 250hz. The problem is I want to think long term and build a midrange box that I can use later on if I do ever play out whilst also thinking short term and having a box that can go down to 250hz and up to like 2khz. Not sure if I should port the box or just build a sealed cab and hope for the best... I wanted to build the 2x12 angled cab from the fane book but it states it can only go down to 400hz. I can't find detailed cut sheets anyway so does anyone have? Or can anyone suggest another option. Thanks, Sam
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Replies:
Posted By: bob4
Date Posted: 07 September 2016 at 7:01pm
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Don't want to sound negative, but it's a very bad idea to use a sound system stack for mixing. When you build big boxes for a modular PA, you end up with too many different sound sources that are far apart from each other and will not sum very well in the near field. These systems are designed to play back music to big crowds. You don't use football stadium floodlights to illuminate your bathroom, do you? If you are serious about "producing" music as in composing, arranging, mixing, mastering, get yourself tools as good as you need. Start somewhere. Even Behringer Truths can be ok for a start! Get a decent pair of studio monitors, and invest some time to get the sound right in your room (placement of speakers, DIY acoustic treatment if needed). If you must, research DIY HiFI/studio monitors. Ask yourself if you want to spend time and money on a speaker building quest, when you could just start making music right away. If you plan to build a sound system anyway, of course, why not test your tunes on it, but making that your main means of monitoring is a very bad idea. EDIT: I don't want to discourage you from building in order to learn, that's a really good motive!! |
Posted By: samsonrocker
Date Posted: 07 September 2016 at 7:12pm
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Hi, thanks for getting back to me. That's good advice I'll take that on board. I actually have studio monitors so I'll be using them when actually composing tracks and putting it all together. Building the soundsystem is mainly so I can gain more understanding about the technical side and then once I have started making music and finished a track (in the far future) I can then hear it back. I just figured if I was going to make music and if I did ever decide to play out myself it would be good to hear what I had made played back on my stack and then could tweak if need be. I'm completely knew to this so don't know if that's doable but seemed like the right idea. Advice on the box appreciated as well though that's the main concern at the moment
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Posted By: bob4
Date Posted: 07 September 2016 at 7:28pm
Ah, nice one, so you're sorted already. 
sounds doable
check JBK's thread : http://forum.speakerplans.com/which-cab-formy-beyma-12mi100s_topic96554.html" rel="nofollow - http://forum.speakerplans.com/which-cab-formy-beyma-12mi100s_topic96554.html the beymas he is using might be an option for you.
why 2 kHz? what do you have to cover the hi freq range?
the statement about lower cutoff might be limited to a specific driver the design was meant for. Other transducers might give better low end in the same box. |
samsonrocker wrote:Posted By: samsonrocker
Date Posted: 07 September 2016 at 8:06pm
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OKay so had a little read through all that, I would like to go for the beymas but I'm trying to keep expenditure low so if I was going to go for them I would need to be sure of what I was doing. At the moment a short throw cab is all I really need, even if I was to play out it would be small crowds. I've literally just finished putting together a tweeter box for two apt80s and a box for a CD and a flare, the cd goes down to 2khz so just figured have the mid box go up to there as I want to take it down quite low (to 250hz) and didn't know whether that would effect quality as I had orginally aimed to cross it over at 4.5khz. On thinking on it a bit more i'd prefer to keep it simple and just build something similar to what Rootikal Vibes have here http://forum.speakerplans.com/scoop-porn-part-2_topic46967_page219.html just a sealed box with 2x12s. so should I be porting that box to take it down to 250hz or would I do fine sealed?
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Posted By: bob4
Date Posted: 09 September 2016 at 11:43am
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for 250 Hz you definitely don't need to port the box. the apt80 is a tweeter, it has to be crossed at least at 3,5 kHz according to specs, or ideally above 5 kHz to take full power. The beyma starts to roll of around 3 kHz, but for home use it could work to cross over into the 12mi100 with a bit of EQ, plus getting the EQ and crossover right can be a good learning experience for you. Another downside is that above 1 kHz the beyma will start to beam, so in the long term you may want to add a mid horn later on to cover 1 kHz - 5 kHz (or whatever crossover freq you choose between mid and tweeter) - if you are serious about playing out with your stack. actually as a KISS low budget option you could also look into the fane 12-250tc, which is a true full range driver going up to 20 kHz (although with HF beaming as well). Search the forum, there are some reports from people using it. EDIT: overlooked the part about CD horn..... which one is it? does it really need to be crossed at 2 kHz? |
Posted By: bob4
Date Posted: 09 September 2016 at 11:50am
250 is not very low for a mid box, even 200 Hz is mostly doable with CB. Below 200 Hz it becomes more difficult, physical size becomes an issue for horn designs, and xmax requirement for direct radiating designs increases. Mid range sensitivity and bass extension of a transducer are somewhat complementary attributes - you can't have both at the same time. |
Posted By: samsonrocker
Date Posted: 09 September 2016 at 4:51pm
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Put these together today, 2 apt80s and a fane CD-130 (doesn't need to be crossed over at 2khz). I think I'll look at the specs and have a mess around with the crossover points once it's all wired up...also still need an amp for my tops. Ok that's worth a look, i was thinking to go for to Fane-Sovereign 12-300 as the mid driver. So if i wanted to put together a sealed mid box, other than building it to the requirements of the chosen driver, is it no more complicated than just an empty F/L box? no need for bracing etc?
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Posted By: bob4
Date Posted: 09 September 2016 at 6:27pm
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download winisd and simulate..... in the helpfile there are instructions how to add new driver data http://www.linearteam.dk/?pageid=winisd" rel="nofollow - http://www.linearteam.dk/?pageid=winisd http://www.fane-international.com/downloads/Fane%20Sovereign%20Pro%2012300%20DS030513.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.fane-international.com/downloads/Fane%20Sovereign%20Pro%2012300%20DS030513.pdf bracing depends on which material you use and how low you want to play. If you intend to cut around 200 Hz, and make a fairly small box out of 18 mm mdf like the previous ones, I don't see any need for bracing. In a closed box, Fane 12-300 will yield a 112 Hz cutoff (-3dB) for a wide range of box sizes (20 - 80 litres). Smaller box size will damp the cone movement better. In a 40 litre box for example, you could put up to 150W into it if you cross at 100 Hz. |
Posted By: samsonrocker
Date Posted: 09 September 2016 at 7:40pm
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I reckon as I've got the mdf I'll just make it from that, later on down the line I'll look to maybe rebuild with ply. Thanks a lot your helps been very useful
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