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TH-18 build

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Category: Plans
Forum Name: Other plans
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about all the other plans
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=98040
Printed Date: 11 December 2019 at 7:47am
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Topic: TH-18 build
Posted By: smitske96
Subject: TH-18 build
Date Posted: 12 March 2017 at 12:04am
Here are some build pics of my new TH-18 sub's.
Because the old topic wasn't appropriate for the TH-18's..

Side panels:

Nice internal view:

First one done:

Both done:

Paint job:



Replies:
Posted By: cravings
Date Posted: 12 March 2017 at 12:37am
very cool. are you going to put grills on?


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 12 March 2017 at 12:41am
Grills will be custom made (but that's gonna take a few weeks).


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 14 March 2017 at 9:33pm
I assembled the cabs yesterday.





Posted By: rish
Date Posted: 15 March 2017 at 8:56am
Very nice. how do they sound?


Posted By: snowflake
Date Posted: 15 March 2017 at 10:11am
good stuff. same layout as danley TH118. have you used same external dimensions?


Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 15 March 2017 at 11:44am
Danley TH118 throat part does not look like that.

-------------
Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: snowflake
Date Posted: 15 March 2017 at 3:06pm
what does he do? letterbox or V?


Posted By: cravings
Date Posted: 15 March 2017 at 4:21pm
these are the TH18 design by x0c1 on diyaudio i think.


Posted By: Speaker Sol
Date Posted: 15 March 2017 at 6:07pm
Nice job.
Looking real smart.

How do they sound.

I would love to see some measurments if you get the chance.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 15 March 2017 at 7:40pm
They are indeed the TH-18 from Xoc1 (with cone correction).

Doing measurements is on the agenda.
First I want to build two front loaded mid-highs (12/1.4).


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 15 March 2017 at 7:42pm
Btw I hooked them up to a TSA 4-700 (I don't have anything else at the moment).
And they can be felt real easy ,with just 490 Watt on them.


Posted By: tv00
Date Posted: 20 March 2017 at 6:58pm
Why not build V2 that drops a bit lower and doesn't have the wasted space inside?


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www.facebook.com/babysoundsystem


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 20 March 2017 at 9:21pm
Originally posted by tv00 tv00 wrote:

Why not build V2 that drops a bit lower and doesn't have the wasted space inside?


To be honest I actually didn't see the v2 version..

Although the triangle makes the m20 really solid (al is it a bit overkill).



The testcabinet for the mid/highs is planned next week. I am going to try the 12nw76, if it won't do the job I will look further for something else.


Posted By: tv00
Date Posted: 21 March 2017 at 10:45am
Uh, keep reading the x0c1 TH-18 thread , after the cone correction they end up by extending the horn to make the second bend close enough to the cone to become the cone correction, then they move the triangle also and add a bit of extension this way also.

Same has been made for Jbell SS15 (also a later mod I believe)
Then it all comes very close to Danleys subs


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www.facebook.com/babysoundsystem


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 22 March 2017 at 8:18pm
I'm looking forward to do some measurements!
I've got a calibrated Behringer ECM8000 as a mic.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 05 April 2017 at 10:23pm
For the mid/high section I am probably going for the PM90 (diy mid high).
But not with the BMS.. In germany somebody used the RCF ND950 driver.

The RCF will save me allot of money, almost 600,-


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 03 May 2017 at 8:22pm
Does anybody have experience with the BMS 2230 horn? someone offered me a pair of BMS 4592 drivers.
They would do the job for the PM90 but there aren't many suitable horns.

The 2230 can be used down to 700 Hz, so it would be on the edge..


Posted By: Teunos
Date Posted: 03 May 2017 at 8:34pm
I dont have any experience with the 2230.
I do however with the 2236, its larger 60x40 brother.

If you need the extension, there isnt really anything out there that can offer it at an affordable price.
(Big) 2'' CD horns are very rare in make, and probably one of the reasons why the PM90 uses the 1.4'' version instead of the 4592 (which is considerably cheaper).

Sound quality wise i would say the JBL 2380 i have sound a bit better, but they cant do what the 2236 can do down low. Saying that, i traded the 2236 for 2380 a while after i purchased the 2236 along with the BMS 4590 (since i didnt need the extreme extension the 2236 offer (down to 450), i cross the 4590 at ~800) , so if you want 2236 at a good price, i have a pair which is gathering dust.


-------------
Best regards,
Teun.

,,Diamonds are forever''


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 03 May 2017 at 8:43pm
@Teunos

Thanks for the reply! Both the 2236 and JBl 2380 are to wide for my application.


If the 2230 won't do the job, I will look further for a pair of 4594 (and I know they are hard to find LOL)


Posted By: Teunos
Date Posted: 03 May 2017 at 10:17pm
Actually i meant 2385, huge mistake on my part.
2230 is 90*50, 2385 and 2236 are both 60*40

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Best regards,
Teun.

,,Diamonds are forever''


Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 04 May 2017 at 12:35am
What do you mean hard to find?

-------------
Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: Keen
Date Posted: 04 May 2017 at 9:11am
Originally posted by Teunos Teunos wrote:

 2230 is 90*50, 2385 and 2236 are both 60*40
He means size wise, not disp.


Posted By: Keen
Date Posted: 05 May 2017 at 12:19am
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Someone offered me a pair of BMS 4592 drivers for the PM90 but there aren't many suitable horns.
PH-642 
http://www.paudiothailand.com/pac/index.cfm/products/product/?id=553" rel="nofollow - http://www.paudiothailand.com/pac/index.cfm/products/product/?id=553


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 24 May 2017 at 3:01pm
Finally did some testing today! 

Music quality was not the best, but good enough for some impressions. I have to say I'm not satisfied yet, it was clearly missing something. 
My guess wood be the bad music quality and not a good summation at the crossover point with the B1520's.

Tops: Behringer B1520 (at the moment I don't have any mid/highs ;D)
Amps: 2X DAP TAS 2400 (one for each TH-18) and a different amp for the B1520 which I don't recall..
processing: Xilica XP3060

Music was just from my phone... so not the best.
Next time I'm hoping to get the mid/highs ready, and to do some measurements with SMAART.


Posted By: Brutus
Date Posted: 29 May 2017 at 3:10pm
hi smitske,

u are welcome to drop by, and smaart your baby :)


Posted By: SouthwestCNC
Date Posted: 29 May 2017 at 3:45pm
Time alignment possibly? Found this to be an issue with the tham 12.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 29 May 2017 at 11:46pm
Originally posted by SouthwestCNC SouthwestCNC wrote:

Time alignment possibly? Found this to be an issue with the tham 12.

That was my first though also, but time being limited I couldn't get it right.
Now I am really hoping to have some time for the mid/high's. 
At the moment the "to-do-list" is VEEEEERRRRRYYY long LOL

Getting some training at time and phase alignment is on of them! This goal of the project is to have a nice sounding system, and I am also confident that can be doable. Ofcourse I have to learn lots of things, but that is never a bad thing!




Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 29 May 2017 at 11:48pm
Originally posted by Brutus Brutus wrote:

hi smitske,

u are welcome to drop by, and smaart your baby :)

Thanks for the offer! Smile I will remember it.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 03 September 2017 at 7:48pm
The cabinets are almost done (but are already in use). In the future the plan is for some other grilles (TH-18's also). The bottom bolts will be replaced with black ones.





Hopefully I have time to get started with the measuring part, but that will take some time.
I am also started with the next project (something like the d&b c4 cabinets).


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 06 September 2017 at 7:57pm
Did some measuring today, and for the first time it's not to bad.


12NW76:
1200 Hz, 12dB/Oct butterworth
0,500 ms delay (was a guess)

DE800
1200 Hz, 12dB/Oct butterworth

Under 300 Hz it's really bumpy, but is very dependent of the position in the room

And another pic with the phase response.

measurements took place in a small room, so the plots are not fantastic.



Posted By: Teunos
Date Posted: 07 September 2017 at 10:10am
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Under 300 Hz it's really bumpy, but is very dependent of the position in the room. measurements took place in a small room, so the plots are not fantastic

Measurement looks totally unreliable. If you do measure in a small room, measure the speaker up close and on the ground, with mic on the ground as well. You canthen eq it reasonably flat and then measure further away above the ground. Average a few "further away" positions and then apply ONLY a low shelve to compensate for the difference in radiation area (half space vs full space). If you need to eq more, there a big chance you are trying to eq either room modes or reflections.

But of course its always best to measure outside.

-------------
Best regards,
Teun.

,,Diamonds are forever''


Posted By: gen0me
Date Posted: 07 September 2017 at 10:58am
What speakers are inside TH?

I would love to hear demo. Just not from the room


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 07 September 2017 at 11:36am
Maybe I have some time to do outside measurements today. 

@gen0me

TH-18's are loaded with the 18SW115-8 and later on with the 4 Ohm version (because there is a QSC PL380 on the way Smile). Tops are loaded with; B&C 12NW76 and the DE800 on a ME90 horn. 

For now the mid/highs are run by two DAP TAS 2400 amps with a XP3060 for the processing.

And SMAART training is in the agenda (October).


Posted By: gen0me
Date Posted: 07 September 2017 at 12:12pm
Seems like very solid setup
12NW76 is closed or br?
Check out the hf horn placement.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 07 September 2017 at 1:49pm
Br port is in the back


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 07 September 2017 at 4:36pm
With some eq on a polemount:

 


Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 08 September 2017 at 12:58am
If i were you, i would use 24db/oct BW. Not 12. It will require reversing polarity on the hf too.

-------------
Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 19 September 2017 at 1:15pm
I'm also still looking for nice professional grill's, but they are indeed hard to get.
Does anyone have a nice adress? I'm looking for honey cone cutouts (or round if not possible).

The plan is to have te same grill for the TH-18 and the mid/high.


Posted By: toastyghost
Date Posted: 19 September 2017 at 2:38pm
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Originally posted by SouthwestCNC SouthwestCNC wrote:

Time alignment possibly? Found this to be an issue with the tham 12.


That was my first though also, but time being limited I couldn't get it right.
Now I am really hoping to have some time for the mid/high's. 
At the moment the "to-do-list" is VEEEEERRRRRYYY long LOL

Getting some training at time and phase alignment is on of them! This goal of the project is to have a nice sounding system, and I am also confident that can be doable. Ofcourse I have to learn lots of things, but that is never a bad thing!




Timo Beckman has a new course starting soon I believe.

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http://www.neuronproaudio.co.uk" rel="nofollow - http://www.neuronproaudio.co.uk


Posted By: all bass
Date Posted: 19 September 2017 at 4:10pm
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

I'm also still looking for nice professional grill's, but they are indeed hard to get.
Does anyone have a nice adress? I'm looking for honey cone cutouts (or round if not possible).

The plan is to have te same grill for the TH-18 and the mid/high.

http://www.rabe-feinblechbearbeitung.de/schutzgitter.html" rel="nofollow - Raabe

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Get your free line array plans here!


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 27 September 2017 at 11:09am
@all bass

Thanks for the link!Wink

I also had some time to do a outside measurement, but couldn't do al the things I wanted to do..


They sound much better already, next step will be measuring them with the TH18's.
After that (will take some time)  a SMAART course by probably Timo Beckman.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 03 October 2017 at 7:12pm
I also started with designing a dual 15 cab for on top of the TH18 or only with the mid-highs.
It has tot have a small frontal area (as wide as the TH18) so 571x571 is the target.

I simulated it as a reflex cab, but I can imagine that there can be a bandpass effect?
Cab is tuned at 43 Hz, and I am planning to go with a push pull configuration.

Topview:

(line's are a little bit crooked because of the conversion by dropbox)

This is still a quick sketch and with this arrangement, it will be a little hard with fitting the drivers.


Posted By: _djk_
Date Posted: 03 October 2017 at 7:50pm
There will be a small peak corresponding to the depth of the cavity, probably around 160hz~180hz.


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djk


Posted By: Xoc1
Date Posted: 03 October 2017 at 9:16pm
I think that depending on the requncy range you are planning for the mid range cab the slot loading will add a peak just where you dont want it.
I cant help thinking that a more gentle angle might work better like a manifold speaker loading (an inverted piramid baffle with the 2  15inch drivers on opposing sides of the piramid)


-------------
OMG my Daughter has gone prog rock!
http://www.strangeredearth.com/videos/


Posted By: _djk_
Date Posted: 03 October 2017 at 10:25pm
"I think that depending on the requncy range you are planning for the mid range cab the slot loading will add a peak just where you dont want it."

So all Cubo subs are junk?

Do you not own an EQ?

The peak is less than what you will see on a small folded horn (or a Cubo).


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djk


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 04 October 2017 at 12:35pm
The range will be 40/45 ish to 140/150 ish. 
Maybe get rid of the two front parts that are 10 cm wide, then the slot will be a little bit shorter.



Posted By: gen0me
Date Posted: 04 October 2017 at 1:45pm
Dont Cubos play everything "on the same note"?

If front is square you could place ports horizontaly and speakers vertically if they dont fit. Or use tube ports.


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 04 October 2017 at 3:01pm
Noooo.... cubos are more musical then That! My 15s played nicely when I was using them



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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: Xoc1
Date Posted: 04 October 2017 at 8:35pm
Originally posted by _djk_ _djk_ wrote:

So all Cubo subs are junk?
Do you not own an EQ?

I don't even know where the Cubo comment comes from? Nothing wrong with Cubos - I even helped draw up the Cubo Sub plans...
When I designed the TH18 I was trying to aim for an extended mid response, to make it easier to match different mid top cabinets.
Regardless not many builders seen to run them above 100hz anyway, which means that some mid tops are struggling to match them. Smitske said he was trying to design some cabs to fit on top of the TH18 boxes and maybe only for the mid highs - Depending on the bandwidth he wanted, I don't see the sense in designing a cab that would have a peak in the top of the passband it was being used in and having to EQ it back out.

Do I own an EQ?
Well I have an well sorted Ecler Sclat 100 for DJ use.
A Soundcraft UI 24R is my current live sound mixer, and a I run a tweaked DCX2496 on my PA.  Is that enough EQ for you?
- Xoc1



-------------
OMG my Daughter has gone prog rock!
http://www.strangeredearth.com/videos/


Posted By: gen0me
Date Posted: 05 October 2017 at 5:39pm
I was asking about Cubo kicks
They are similar to the topic box.


Posted By: _djk_
Date Posted: 05 October 2017 at 10:08pm
" don't even know where the Cubo comment comes from?"

The Cubo designs all have much worse peaks near the upper end of the passband, yet no one complains about them.


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djk


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 06 October 2017 at 3:19pm
I know that one of the goals for the TH-18 was to reach 100 Hz, but at full output, my own mid/highs lack a bit of low. Just the 80 to 100 Hz punch isn't there (att the max of the system). 

I also need a smaller cab for the smaller gigs, sure I can build a random cabinet, but it would be nice if the hole system could be used together. 
Just a single 15" reflex is still an option, tuned at 40 ish Hz or so.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 23 October 2017 at 12:12pm
Did a gig last month with two TH18 + the mid/highs, and it sounded pretty good (but not good enough LOL). Response was pretty flat, except <100 Hz, because I like some extra low. Output of the overall system was nice!

The drivers in the TH18 will be replaced with the 4 Ohm 18sw115, because now I have a PL380.
Also bought a PL340 for the 12NW76, I only need a 1he amp for the DE800's.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 24 October 2017 at 7:12pm
So had some contect with the company that all bass tipped me, and gave them al the measurements.
It is definately not cheap, but it is a must for me LOL.

I'm thinking of mounting the grill on the top woth some strong magnets or something. 
Any thoughts?


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 04 November 2017 at 2:51pm
Grill for the mid/high:


Grill TH18:



Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 04 November 2017 at 3:12pm
How much they want for the TH grill?



-------------
Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 04 November 2017 at 3:21pm
Around 250,-  (for 2) including taxes and shipping. 
Main thing is that they have to be drawn in a CAD program of some sort (which just cost time).





Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 10 November 2017 at 2:12pm
Does anyone have experience with putting the foam behind the grill?

The problem with the glue (I have, penn elcom) is that it will cause webs over the grill. 
That's not a problem if the foam is in front of the grill, but it is a problem if it's behind the grill...

Any tips or tricks?


Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 10 November 2017 at 7:31pm
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Does anyone have experience with putting the foam behind the grill?

The problem with the glue (I have, penn elcom) is that it will cause webs over the grill. 
That's not a problem if the foam is in front of the grill, but it is a problem if it's behind the grill...

Any tips or tricks?

I haven't tried this but I've seen recommendations on other fora to spray the glue on the foam first (not the grille), wait a minute or two so the glue is less liquid, then press it onto the grille.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 10 November 2017 at 9:27pm
That is an option, but then you can see the glue true the grill..


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 22 November 2017 at 2:27pm
And the grilles have arrived!Cool



Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 29 November 2017 at 9:11am
Hopefully I've got time this weekend to put the grilles on.
Only thing I'm not sure about is the foam behind the grill. 
I see that many other brands use not the standard speaker foam (something like the stuff on D&B C4 and stuff).

Has anybody some suggestions?


Posted By: toastyghost
Date Posted: 29 November 2017 at 12:32pm
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Hopefully I've got time this weekend to put the grilles on.
Only thing I'm not sure about is the foam behind the grill. 
I see that many other brands use not the standard speaker foam (something like the stuff on D&B C4 and stuff).

Has anybody some suggestions?


That foam is fine, get a good bond to the grille but be prepared that over time it will come loose from getting wet and the pressure.

-------------
http://www.neuronproaudio.co.uk" rel="nofollow - http://www.neuronproaudio.co.uk


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 29 November 2017 at 3:06pm
I think I didn't formulate the question right Shocked

I mean not the stuff like D&B C4, but something like meyer sound uses on lina.



Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 30 November 2017 at 3:03pm
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

I think I didn't formulate the question right Shocked

I mean not the stuff like D&B C4, but something like meyer sound uses on lina.


Hard to tell but that looks more like a woven fibre rather than a foam - something like (a more upmarket version of) one of these: http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=MON129240&browsemode=category" rel="nofollow - http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=MON129240&browsemode=category or http://www.terralec.co.uk/covering__lining/nylon_fret_material/17060_p.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.terralec.co.uk/covering__lining/nylon_fret_material/17060_p.html or https://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_0715.htm" rel="nofollow - https://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_0715.htm perhaps?



Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 10 December 2017 at 10:01am
I went for the standard D&B C4 looking stuff, and now I am in the process of attaching the stuff to the grill.
I got advised to use white wood glue, and apply it with a paint roller. But It won't stay on..
I used the "quick dry version" (had it laying around) but it doesn't' work.

Biggest problem with the standard glues for the foam, is that they heave leftovers that you can see through the frill, and that would be really unfortunately.
Does anyone have tips or tricks?




Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 12 December 2017 at 7:41pm
And now with grills! Smile




Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 12 December 2017 at 7:54pm
Awesome build. They look absolutely banging!

You must be really pleased.


Posted By: toastyghost
Date Posted: 12 December 2017 at 8:00pm
Nice, always suggested that tapped horns should have full face grilles - arsey engineers who want a 218 reflex will quite easily be fooled without much argument then!

-------------
http://www.neuronproaudio.co.uk" rel="nofollow - http://www.neuronproaudio.co.uk


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 12 December 2017 at 8:06pm
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Awesome build. They look absolutely banging!

You must be really pleased.

I'm very happy with the cabs yes! The only thing I would do differently the next time is the paint.
As said before (many times on forums) spraying gives the nicest effect (my opinion).
But that can be done in the future, when they need a new coat Smile.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 12 December 2017 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by toastyghost toastyghost wrote:

Nice, always suggested that tapped horns should have full face grilles - arsey engineers who want a 218 reflex will quite easily be fooled without much argument then!

+1 LOL


Posted By: cravings
Date Posted: 12 December 2017 at 10:11pm
they look excellent. are the grills flat, and screwed to battens?


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 13 December 2017 at 9:38am
They are screwed to 18mm baltic birch strips. In the middle there's an allen screw with s spacer between the cab, and the grill. Was needed because the grill itself is not flat because of the perforation, so that fixes it.


Posted By: Jo bg
Date Posted: 13 December 2017 at 5:59pm
I am so jelous about your finish, really pro look, we  ended bulding the second pair of th18 last week but i think it's gonna be summer before we come to paint them.
Allready had two parties with the new ones though, four inside produce such a smile...


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 17 December 2017 at 6:35pm
Another pair is on the planning (some day LOL)
First is a new (more) compact cab, probably reflex.


Posted By: markie
Date Posted: 19 December 2017 at 4:34pm
To fit foam to the grills you need 3Ms "Scotchweld 77".  Cut the foam slightly oversize. Then spray the rear of the grill NOT the foam. Then press foam in place.  and trim excess.

DON'T use any other spray adhesive
. Most produce a "spiders web" effect across the perforations which will be visible when the foam is fitted. The scotchweld 77 doesn't.


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If it's got wheels or tits it's gonna cost a fortune


Posted By: Hemisphere
Date Posted: 19 December 2017 at 6:43pm
That's just brilliant!

Simple, effective, attention to the fine detail and the function instead of Yet Another Bloody Spaceship.

-------------
Phase 1: Post on Speakerplans
Phase 2: ?????
Phase 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zc4bGkU05o" rel="nofollow - Profit!


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 19 December 2017 at 7:05pm
Originally posted by markie markie wrote:

To fit foam to the grills you need 3Ms "Scotchweld 77".  Cut the foam slightly oversize. Then spray the rear of the grill NOT the foam. Then press foam in place.  and trim excess.

DON'T use any other spray adhesive
. Most produce a "spiders web" effect across the perforations which will be visible when the foam is fitted. The scotchweld 77 doesn't.

At the moment I used Bison glue, looks allot like the scotchweld stuff. 
I applied the same as you said, but still keeps coming lose when I turn it up a little.



Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 19 December 2017 at 7:44pm
Yeah, it never cures 100%, so the foam can be easily removed. We dot the foam from behind with superglue for the subs after we glue is with spray77. That keeps it in place for long time.

-------------
Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: Russellsoundsolution
Date Posted: 12 January 2018 at 10:23pm
Heyo! First of all LOVE the build!
  
About to start a build of basically the same boxes -I'm going with the Faital Pro 18HW1070 drivers... Just a set of 2 to start.

Overall are you happy with the results? I'm doing this build to replace 2 qsc KW181 as I was not happy with the overall output.  I have 2 QSC KW153 for tops now and the 181 just did not keep up.

 I plan on driving these with a QSC PLD 4.5 running it 2 channels @ 4ohm  which will give me my 1600w continuous and a 2400w peak 100hz low pass rolling it off around 36-38 or so. 

Any advice or input as I venture into this? I already have the drivers and a buddy is going to have the wood cuts done on a CNC machine. 

http://www.faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=201070138

https://www.qsc.com/live-sound/products/power-amplifiers/pld-series/pld45/





Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 13 January 2018 at 9:03am
Maybe the only thing I would have done different, is the paint job.
Now I did it with a roller, but spraying gives a more professional finish.


Posted By: Russellsoundsolution
Date Posted: 13 January 2018 at 10:47am
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Maybe the only thing I would have done different, is the paint job.
Now I did it with a roller, but spraying gives a more professional finish.


Happy with the output? -How much power ya throwing at them? 



Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 13 January 2018 at 11:58am
Qsc pl380 powering them 4 Ohm.
3 weeks and then I can use them to their full potential.


Posted By: Russellsoundsolution
Date Posted: 13 January 2018 at 2:43pm
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Qsc pl380 powering them 4 Ohm.
3 weeks and then I can use them to their full potential.


What drivers did you use? 




Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 13 January 2018 at 5:00pm
18sw115-4


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 17 January 2018 at 9:12am
For the DE800 I think it is wise to use a capacitor to protect it from DC-voltage (if it happens).
Are there any specific types used for this application?


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 21 February 2018 at 3:00pm
Update: The current set-up is likely to be powered by litemod modules (with DSP ofcourse).
So the current amprack is up for sale.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 1:52pm
And another update LOL

The current top cabinets will be replaced with new ones.
With larger internal volume, and more port area.
Also a beefier low/mid driver (probably MB12N405), high driver probably a ND950 (1.4) or maybe a BMS coax, on a HF950 horn.

They will be weighing more, but I hope to keep it under 27 Kg's.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 28 February 2018 at 3:07pm
So I'm working on the new boxes, and I thought this also was the good oppertunity to paint the TH-18 cabs differently. I'm planning on spraying the warnex instead of doing it with a roller.

I see a lot of those airles spraygun things, and I was wodering if this would work with warnex.
Or that I just buy a compressor with a spraying gun. The goal is to get the nice pro splatter finish.


Posted By: Timebomb
Date Posted: 28 February 2018 at 6:33pm
My experience of airless sprayers is that they will not siphon thick heavy paint,  i do have one that is sold as a plaster sprayer but it is hard to get a consistent texture with it.  I would say buy a compressor and pressure pot and gun.

-------------
James Secker          facebook.com/soundgearuk
James@soundgear.co.uk               www.soundgear.co.uk


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 04 March 2018 at 1:59pm
Compressor with pressure por and gun it is then!

The new cabs are almost finished, again cnc cutting which saves me a lot of time.



Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 18 March 2018 at 12:49am
Another update!

Low/mid will be the BMS 12N803, mid/high --> BMS 4594 on the RCF HF950.
Total weight of one cab would be +-25 kg (powered).

Also much bigger port area then the last build, almost 300% more.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 11 April 2018 at 12:25pm
So I sold the TH-18 cabinets Shocked and stopped the build of the new top cabinets..
I bought a secondhand "D&B C7" like system, it uses a hornloaded 15" and a BMS 4554 coaxialy mounted as mid/high. And Hybrid subs for the bass section, it's design looks like the acoustic line TSE sub, but is a bit bigger (they also go lower). 
I'm currently using two crown I-tech 4000's for the setup, they are both checked and services by crown, so I'm not afraid for failure.

i'm planning on using the DIY mid/highs for the summer (and probably a bit longer).
Also a pic of them with the new grill:



Why did I sell the TH18's? They did not really suit my needs, most of the gigs are not that big, and two smaller subs would suffice. Also when it gets bigger, the current setup would not be capable enough (now it is).


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 05 May 2018 at 8:06pm
Before starting a whole new topic..
I currently started testing (and doing some measurements) with the new set up, I'm now confronted with a new problem Shocked 

Set up:
4X Hybrid sub
2X C7 like top



Today I did some testing and managed to do a few measurements (with REW).
Between 600 and 1kHz there is clearly some trouble, there are also about 3 phase wraps at that point.
I self think this problem is caused by the rather big horn on de compression driver (BMS 4554 and XR1464). Low-mid is covered by a BMS 15S320. At this pic there is some EQ on the setup, I was stupid enough to NOT save the other measurements, but they al have the same problem at the give frequency.

Distance from cabinet: 2m
Hight of measurement: ~1,70m (stacked on two subs)

I know this one pic is not really usefull to get some conclusions, but maybe somebody already encountered this problem.






Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 05 May 2018 at 8:09pm
..standing waves for the box shaped room you're in?




-------------
If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 05 May 2018 at 8:14pm
Also handy to know.. measurements was outside.
Approximally 40m from a (busy road).


Posted By: midas
Date Posted: 05 May 2018 at 9:43pm
Originally posted by Timebomb Timebomb wrote:

My experience of airless sprayers is that they will not siphon thick heavy paint,  i do have one that is sold as a plaster sprayer but it is hard to get a consistent texture with it.  I would say buy a compressor and pressure pot and gun.

Easier and better if you only have a couple of cabs to do is: u pol raptor truck bed liner and buy the gun with it. Not cheap but then you only have to buy a compressor. No pot needed plus you get a two part solvent paint finish. 


-------------
In bass no one can hear you scream!


Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 06 May 2018 at 8:28am
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Before starting a whole new topic..
I currently started testing (and doing some measurements) with the new set up, I'm now confronted with a new problem Shocked 

Set up:
4X Hybrid sub
2X C7 like top



Today I did some testing and managed to do a few measurements (with REW).
Between 600 and 1kHz there is clearly some trouble, there are also about 3 phase wraps at that point.
I self think this problem is caused by the rather big horn on de compression driver (BMS 4554 and XR1464). Low-mid is covered by a BMS 15S320. At this pic there is some EQ on the setup, I was stupid enough to NOT save the other measurements, but they al have the same problem at the give frequency.

Distance from cabinet: 2m
Hight of measurement: ~1,70m (stacked on two subs)

I know this one pic is not really usefull to get some conclusions, but maybe somebody already encountered this problem.

This is a common problem with boxes that have coaxially mounted HF. Reflections from the HF horn back is what is causing those dips.
Solution is to either use different HF driver that you can cut lower (ideally at around 600Hz) or you can try and attach some sort of foam (sponge) at the back of the HF horn and lower the reflections.


-------------
Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: nickyburnell
Date Posted: 06 May 2018 at 10:42am
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Before starting a whole new topic..
I currently started testing (and doing some measurements) with the new set up, I'm now confronted with a new problem Shocked 

Set up:
4X Hybrid sub
2X C7 like top



Today I did some testing and managed to do a few measurements (with REW).
Between 600 and 1kHz there is clearly some trouble, there are also about 3 phase wraps at that point.
I self think this problem is caused by the rather big horn on de compression driver (BMS 4554 and XR1464). Low-mid is covered by a BMS 15S320. At this pic there is some EQ on the setup, I was stupid enough to NOT save the other measurements, but they al have the same problem at the give frequency.

Distance from cabinet: 2m
Hight of measurement: ~1,70m (stacked on two subs)

I know this one pic is not really usefull to get some conclusions, but maybe somebody already encountered this problem.






I love C7 top but what you have described makes sense. I always thought they got a little, "stressed" but didn't think it was actual distortion. Thanks :)


-------------
It's everything, not everythink!



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