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ProSound Horn VS 1850 Horn

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Boukisan View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 December 2007 at 6:41am
http://www.prosoundweb.com/lsp/
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http://www.speakerplans.com/index.php?id=1850horn

I have spent some time comparing designs for speaker cabins, and I've narrowed it down to these two designs. I've been discussing it on various forums, but now I've got some people who are just sticking to their guns - I'm not getting clear explanations for why one is better than the other.

My plans for the 1850 horn was to use the VOID 18-1000, make four of them and run them with the crown MA5000. Some agreed that it sounded like a great idea, but others argued that the prosound cabinet with two LAB12 speakers would be more efficient and produce lower frequencies - MUCH lower than the 1850 cab would at the same volume.

My goal is to start a stack of super bass horns for Drum N'Bass DJ. We need lots of bass, and we need it to go low. Some arfue that the ProSound cabinet goes much lower than the 1850.

Finally, I was told it would be a waste to scale up the prosound to accomodate the VOID 18-1000s.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Insomnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2007 at 8:23am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boukisan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2007 at 8:33am
More ambivalence?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Disco Stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2007 at 9:07pm
Well lets put it this way, you want bass that drops low but handles the transients well, I dont think either cab is suitable on its own. You need a combination of a short kick horn for the higher frequencies and a cabinet for the sub bass range

The lab sub is a good cabinet and it would be unwise to even think about scaling any cabinets up or down. That statement tells us all that you are new to this sort of thing. Horns are VERY specific, the lab horn was designed for the lab 12 driver. The driver comes first and is essential. If you go messing about substituting drivers and trying to scale things up because you think its that simple you're going to end up with a costly error.

Anyway here are some facts that might help you on your way better.

Longer horns such as the Labsub tend to have two main characteristics which make them suitable for one type of bass. The first of these is the simple fact that due to the length of the horn the mass of air that the drivers have to move is higher. Therefore you tend to need a driver with a very strong motor system and a reasonably high Fs or you get a sound which appears "slower" or in other words has a poorer transient response (kick frequencies). Using smaller drivers such as 12"s helps to negate the problem due to their size they tend to have better control over their cones than larger 18" drivers for example and are less prone to tearing due to the smaller diameter between supports.

One other characteristic of a longer horn is that is usually has more folds which filter out more of the upper bass frequencies. As a result horns which are designed for this sort of application usually sound honky above 100Hz and/or may start to roll off the upper bass range earlier depending on how specifically they are designed

A short horn like the HD15 will give you a good transient response due to the shorter horn and better kick punch, but wont do the subbass so must be supported below.

An 1850 is kind of a compromise, its a relatively short horn that plays to 50Hz comfortably and is a one box solution.

So you have a bit of a choice depending on your mid top cabs

If you go for example Labsubs 30-80Hz then HD15s 80-140Hz then mid tops above that.

Or if you have tops that go to 80-100Hz then use either the Lab or 1850 from 30/40-90/100Hz then mid tops from there up, but a mid top that plays loudly to 100Hz usually involves at least a 12" driver.

Stu



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boukisan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 December 2007 at 1:15am

Thanks, Stu. I know it's obvious that I just started learning this. I also gathered a long time ago that I would need more than just cabinets for the bottom end - my questions were focused on the reasoning behind why I am using a certain design for the bottom end cabinets - since I am going to invest thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of time, I want to start in the area that always seems lacking in our local clubs - bottom end bass.

My next questions were going to be what cabinets and drivers would you pair with the labhorns. One thing you said has summed up what I have been trying to get from so many forums for the last few days:

"An 1850 is kind of a compromise, its a relatively short horn that plays to 50Hz comfortably and is a one box solution."

This is why I don't want the 1850. I want low loud bottom end, and I want to build cabinets for the other frequency ranges as well. It's nice to hear a statement that basically splits the Gordian Knot. Thanks for that.

I also read the thread you were involved in where a guy was trying so hard to find a way to make a cabinet that utilized 18s earlier today - between your statements here and that thread, I wish I had found this info more easily so that I wouldn't have had toask the forum. However, I didn't run into this information very easily.

We're going to rent for our first gig, then add our labhorns and a crown 5000 to the next - mixed with rented gear, and then grow our collection to rent less and less for each event.

HD15s are a speakerplans box, right? Which driver will complement the labhorns in this, and what kind of search criteria should I be using in the forum to find threads about the rest of the aural spectrum?

Thanks for the info - you've been much more succinct and knowledgable than anyone I've met on these forums...






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Disco Stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 December 2007 at 10:18am
Well these are all my own opinions and many can offer the same but I try my best to keep things relatively factual. The truth is there are so many different options out there, that without knowing a lot about sound you really wont know what you need unless you have a considerable amount of experience of building and listening to boxes.

Anyway the labs are powerful cabs and if you have the money and know what you are doing they will sound great, just be sure to read all the caveats such as making sure you use enough of them!

The point is about the labs they go low, but they dont go low in singles, with bass horns the output in the low end is determined primarily by the total mouth area (the frontal dimensions) of the horn.

Check out this page for an idea http://melhuish.org/audio/horndesign.html scroll down to mouth size and enter the frequency you want to achieve into the Fo parameter i.e. 30Hz

Assuming the lab is placed in the middle of the floor (and my working out is correct) you will end up with something like

1/2x4Pi * (344/30)^2 = 0.0796 * 131.48 = 10.465

So you need a fair few cabinets to get the super low bass you want at full power

Anyway with regards to the HD use the best drivers you can afford, the PDs should have a stronger cone than the Eminences for example and generally better longevity.

It all really depends on your budget

The rest of the aural spectrum, well its difficult, there arent a lot of perfect designs out there for the DIYer as everybodys needs are so different. Would need more info about the situation where you are going to be using them to make a judgement.

Stu
All you need to know is:
Sensitivity + Power Handling - Power Compression = Max Output

My acts:
www.myspace.com/thebowiexperience
www.myspace.com/scheisseelektronisches
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rezsbc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2007 at 11:45am
remember that the same applies to 1850 horns too.... more in a stack will help you go lower than 50Hz....
 
we use 'looney bins' (modified versions of the 1850) and they play down to 38Hz no bother in a stack of 4.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Disco Stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2007 at 3:11pm
I thought the length of the 1850 was only long enough to load to 50Hz fully regardless of the mouth size

Rezsbc you say they play down to 38Hz is that -3dB or -6dB or what?

Stu
All you need to know is:
Sensitivity + Power Handling - Power Compression = Max Output

My acts:
www.myspace.com/thebowiexperience
www.myspace.com/scheisseelektronisches
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jake_Fielder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2007 at 4:00pm
How do horns act when playing at a lower frequency than there horn length supports...??
 
50Hz is a 687cm long wave, that would require a horn length of 171.75cm, the 1850 horn is 160cm.....
 
That means an 1850horn will only play 'properly' down to 53.5Hz
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Disco Stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2007 at 5:41pm
In singles as far as I know the response is rougher (more peaks and troughs - but thats the same with all speakers, stacking flattens out response) and obviously has less extension, in the case of some horns they roll off slowly below the cutoff in the case of some its a quick roll off, the 186 and 1850 Horns are two of these kinds based around the size of the rear chamber and the spec of the driver.

http://billfitzmaurice.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=398

Stu
All you need to know is:
Sensitivity + Power Handling - Power Compression = Max Output

My acts:
www.myspace.com/thebowiexperience
www.myspace.com/scheisseelektronisches
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark James Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2007 at 8:33pm
also when you stack more cabs, the horn length [well at least its effective length] will be slightly extended. ie in larger stacks the horn will still have a litle control over the air for a few inches after it has left the cab.
the lab sub is a well regarded bin when it comes to dnb as it goes about as low as you can sensibly get with a diy horn, well at least an off the shelf diy design any way.
as said though you will need some kind of kick box with them but for dnb you wont actualy need many kick boxes, a pair of usb and four labs have been used for this kind of music to devastating effect by a fellow forum user...
me so horny me love you long throw
horn loaded for her pleasure
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boukisan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2007 at 8:37pm
Sounds like what I'm looking for.
Was there a thread on this setup?

Newbie question, apologies in advance:
"kick boxes, a pair of usb"

Where can I get plans for these boxes?

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