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re drilling 1850 baffle, help.. |
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AJ 
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Joined: 08 May 2009 Status: Offline Points: 156 |
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 Topic: re drilling 1850 baffle, help..Posted: 24 July 2009 at 6:33am |
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Hi
Does any1 have any pointers to make re drilling a baffle on 1850 cab from pd1850 to v18 as stress free as possible and any advise on the best filler to use?? thanks in advance adam |
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stitchy
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Joined: 07 October 2007 Location: Nottinghamshire Status: Offline Points: 996 |
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 8:43am |
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hi mate i would use car body filler sets nice and hard P38 from halfords £6-7 others may use other fillers see what they also recommend
cheers stitchy
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Father-Francis
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Joined: 24 October 2007 Location: Kenya ,Denmark Status: Offline Points: 2753 |
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 9:09am |
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Adam open the cab from the top, sand down remove screws , carefully .
thats what i´d do |
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Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk
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luke_0301
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Joined: 31 May 2009 Location: lincolnshire Status: Offline Points: 644 |
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 9:30am |
only do this if it is marine ply! a friend tried this with his cabs made from 18mm wbp,and you will end up splitting the top as it comes off! if it was glued well enough that is!
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more bass please
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nickyburnell
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 9:47am |
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It's everything, not everythink!
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biotec
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Joined: 07 June 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2931 |
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 10:08am |
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drilling the holes at the back of the chamber will be extremly difficult as you probably don't have a enough room to get a drill chuck in. Perhaps you could use one of those flexible drill shafts? I have never used one but they look useful if they work properly.
Francis's suggestion is best if you can do it without mullering the cab. Taking a crowbar to your pride and joy is always painfull. If the top doesn't come off without a fight when you have removed all the screws (including the brace), I would carefully cut along the joint using a plunge saw. Make sure that the saw blade thickness is in the end panel so that you can just replace the whole panel once it is off.
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me so horny, me love you long throw.
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ceharden
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 10:27am |
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Consider using clamps rather than bolting through the chassis perhaps. Means you don't have to be quite so accurate with the hole positions.
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Dom
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 10:57am |
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Or just use 1850 drivers... A lot less hassle...
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"It sounded like a million fire engines chasing ten million ambulances through a war zone and it was played at a volume that made the empty chair beside me bleed."
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shagnasty
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Joined: 30 July 2007 Location: Guildford, UK Status: Offline Points: 7685 |
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 12:54pm |
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Whip the screws out the top and use a festool saw on a guide to slice the top off the cab, you loose 3.2mm of material which if you are good can be 0.2mm of cab and 3mm of lid, screw lid back on upside down and make good with P38....
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levyte357
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 1:55pm |
Yes... I have 2x of them for sale...  |
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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".
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AJ
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Joined: 08 May 2009 Status: Offline Points: 156 |
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Posted: 24 July 2009 at 2:28pm |
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Thanks for all of your suggestions, I don't really feel confident enough to start hacking the cabs apart my self. The clamp idea sounds like the best bet, does anyone know where i can get suitable ones from at all?
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AJ
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Posted: 25 July 2009 at 3:45pm |
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any1 please? bluearan seem to stock them but would this be ok to hold an 18inch driver in place?
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Father-Francis wrote: