Should I worry? Mains cables |
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MattStolton
Old Croc Joined: 04 September 2010 Location: Walthamstow Status: Offline Points: 4234 |
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In principle, I agree with your sentiment about no screws to work loose. However. There are a shedload of dodgy BS1363 moulded plugs about, that claim to conform, but don't. Plenty don't even have a space for a fuse to be fitted! With a re-wirable plug, you can see not just the outside, but also visually check the inside. You can't check for anything arcing in a moulded plug. CPC (Farnell Group) should be a safe enough bet, I would hope they have someone competent looking at goods in, but you never know. |
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Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains" |
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djgorey
Young Croc Joined: 29 December 2007 Location: S. Wales Status: Offline Points: 1306 |
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It seems that my lack of knowledge has led me to spend more money than I needed on cables that are over-specc’d for what i need and fail pat tests! That’s an expensive lesson!
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Gaffa tape is like the force in Star Wars - there's a dark side and a light side and it holds the universe together
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imageoven
Old Croc Joined: 28 March 2007 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 2186 |
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Yes I do try and buy branded items to avoid this (I generally avoid 'pro elec' as they seem to be the cheapest version of any thing the CPC buyer could find, but these seem good.) So far so good. When testing it's not uncommen to find plug tops with loose screws or simply a badly wired plug. We very rarely see problems with moulded plugs. |
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Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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imageoven
Old Croc Joined: 28 March 2007 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 2186 |
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Swap the 13A plugs for 16A Ceeform...
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Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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MattStolton
Old Croc Joined: 04 September 2010 Location: Walthamstow Status: Offline Points: 4234 |
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Just a bit unlucky, but you erred in the right direction, i.e. spend more on thicker CSA. Worst case, take the 13A plugs off, and wire a Powercon in (grey) on. Then buy some 13A to Powercon (blue) in 1.5mm, get some powercon couplers. (Square tubes with one of each blue and grey powercon chassis plug at opposite ends.) Penn-Elcom (formerly CLD Dist) is as good a place to get genuine Neutrik from. Buying cheap neutrik from ebay/amazon may not guarantee "authenticity", and hence what current they are actually capable of handling. Most 2.5mm is good beyond the 20A rating of a Powercon. Distance et al derating factors ignored. Some fault to be laid at the feet of whoever made them for you. If you make stuff, you should know the rules on what you are making? |
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Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains" |
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MattStolton
Old Croc Joined: 04 September 2010 Location: Walthamstow Status: Offline Points: 4234 |
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Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains" |
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djgorey
Young Croc Joined: 29 December 2007 Location: S. Wales Status: Offline Points: 1306 |
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This is what I thought. It means that if I’ve got useful cables that I can use
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Gaffa tape is like the force in Star Wars - there's a dark side and a light side and it holds the universe together
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MattStolton
Old Croc Joined: 04 September 2010 Location: Walthamstow Status: Offline Points: 4234 |
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Also, The IET CoP for electrical in service testing, is just that, a Code Of Practice. A recommendation for the right/best way to do things, if you will.
It is something you should do; and if you do follow it, you are far less likely to kill, injure or cause damage. Equally, if you still manage to vaporize something or someone, and are up before M'Lord, if you can prove that you did everything by "the book", you sentence will be most likely reduced. However, just that one CoP in isolation is not the whole story. There is BS7909 and BS7671 - 18th Ed especially is recognised by H&SE as being something that reduces risk of death and fire, if followed, and take a very dim view if you don't. British and harmonised EN standards make sure manufacturers and importers do make stuff in a safe manor, fit for purpose. However, the quest for profits, and the Chinese doing what they are told for a price, can lead to many things that claim compliance, but aren't. The number of fake BS1363 ("13A") plugs on leadsets and applainces is worryingly prevalent. Then there is PUWER and EaWR which you are legally obliged to comply with, as an employer or "company", i.e. try and make money from your activity, even if at a loss. Charities would also still need to comply with PUWER and EaWR AFAIK. Ultimately PAT is "a" method of proving maintenance of your electrical appliances - maintenance, and proof thereof, is required by law as part of PUWER and EaWR. If you had cheeaped out, and used 0.5mm, I would have taken the piss, but you went the right way for the right reason, and just got unlucky. |
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Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains" |
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Boxes-R-Blue
Registered User Joined: 11 December 2018 Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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"Sparkius metiretur vestra"
I think I know the Irish brother of that quote! |
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jacethebase
Old Croc Joined: 23 September 2009 Location: Somerset Status: Offline Points: 5699 |
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I have loads of 13a - 16a made with 1.5mm h07 built 30cm long.
Then 16a-powercon made out of 2.5mm h07 built 2m long.
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www.wedding-production.co.uk
www.stage2sound.com |
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ceharden
The 10,000 Points Club Joined: 05 June 2005 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 11776 |
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My personal opinion:
While 2.5mmsq into a 13A plug is officially something you shouldn't do, IF the plug allows you to do it safely, assembles correctly, cord grip works properly etc, I can't see how it is introducing an additional risk into the system. There are bigger issues out there, like the mobile coffee vendor I spotted on the weekend using a 32A ceeform male-male cable because he'd fitted an outlet as an inlet to his horsebox... He also had a 13A plug to 32A male lying around too. Or my father in law who wires 13A double sockets in his garage on 1mm T&E. |
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MattStolton
Old Croc Joined: 04 September 2010 Location: Walthamstow Status: Offline Points: 4234 |
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I agree, some decent branded plugs will allow 2.5 h07 into them, and close down correctly, with no crimp of cable, or gap between housing and plug. I think that is where H07 has improved over the years, and the amount of insulation to make it 450/750V rated has reduced through better materials, hence got thinner. However a BS1363 plug is fused at a max of 13A. Why you need more than 1.5mm, is only if you are doing something very long distance, in which case you are beyond the remit of what a 13A plug was designed for. Don't forget it, and ring mains, were designed so that you could pick up your 3KW electric fire, and move it into whatever room you were in, at any one time. The ring allowed for a second person in a different room to do the same thing. The only other electric things back then would have been "the wireless", and maybe the odd house would have had a TV. And then some 5A round pin outlets for your 60W table lamps. Irons would have been heated on the Aga; domestic electric washing machines, fridges and freezers, etc all started being available in the late 50's, so very rare in a domestic setting until the 60's. BS1363 (1947) and BS7671 11th Ed were being dreamt up as a solution to how to build good homes to replace those lost in WW2, during the end years of WW2. BS7671 11th Ed was 1939, with amendments in 43, 45, 46 and 48. "12th Ed" was 1950.
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Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains" |
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