Speakerplans.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > General > Newbie Discussion
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Should I worry? Mains cables
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Should I worry? Mains cables

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>
Author
Message
MattStolton View Drop Down
Old Croc
Old Croc
Avatar

Joined: 04 September 2010
Location: Walthamstow
Status: Offline
Points: 4234
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattStolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2019 at 4:51pm
Originally posted by imageoven imageoven wrote:


For making up 13A cables I tend to go for moulded plugs such as these, no screws to come loose over time.

In principle, I agree with your sentiment about no screws to work loose.

However.

There are a shedload of dodgy BS1363 moulded plugs about, that claim to conform, but don't. Plenty don't even have a space for a fuse to be fitted!

With a re-wirable plug, you can see not just the outside, but also visually check the inside. You can't check for anything arcing in a moulded plug.

CPC (Farnell Group) should be a safe enough bet, I would hope they have someone competent looking at goods in, but you never know.
Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains"
Back to Top
djgorey View Drop Down
Young Croc
Young Croc
Avatar

Joined: 29 December 2007
Location: S. Wales
Status: Offline
Points: 1306
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote djgorey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2019 at 5:09pm
It seems that my lack of knowledge has led me to spend more money than I needed on cables that are over-specc’d for what i need and fail pat tests! That’s an expensive lesson!


Gaffa tape is like the force in Star Wars - there's a dark side and a light side and it holds the universe together
Back to Top
imageoven View Drop Down
Old Croc
Old Croc


Joined: 28 March 2007
Location: Scotland
Status: Offline
Points: 2186
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imageoven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2019 at 5:17pm
Originally posted by MattStolton MattStolton wrote:

[Q
There are a shedload of dodgy BS1363 moulded plugs about, that claim to conform, but don't.


Yes I do try and buy branded items to avoid this (I generally avoid 'pro elec' as they seem to be the cheapest version of any thing the CPC buyer could find, but these seem good.) So far so good. When testing it's not uncommen to find plug tops with loose screws or simply a badly wired plug. We very rarely see problems with moulded plugs.


Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
Back to Top
imageoven View Drop Down
Old Croc
Old Croc


Joined: 28 March 2007
Location: Scotland
Status: Offline
Points: 2186
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imageoven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2019 at 5:19pm
Originally posted by djgorey djgorey wrote:

It seems that my lack of knowledge has led me to spend more money than I needed on cables that are over-specc’d for what i need and fail pat tests! That’s an expensive lesson!


Swap the 13A plugs for 16A Ceeform...
Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
Back to Top
MattStolton View Drop Down
Old Croc
Old Croc
Avatar

Joined: 04 September 2010
Location: Walthamstow
Status: Offline
Points: 4234
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattStolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2019 at 5:19pm
Originally posted by djgorey djgorey wrote:

It seems that my lack of knowledge has led me to spend more money than I needed on cables that are over-specc’d for what i need and fail pat tests! That’s an expensive lesson!




Just a bit unlucky, but you erred in the right direction, i.e. spend more on thicker CSA.

Worst case, take the 13A plugs off, and wire a Powercon in (grey) on. Then buy some 13A to Powercon (blue) in 1.5mm, get some powercon couplers. (Square tubes with one of each blue and grey powercon chassis plug at opposite ends.)

Penn-Elcom (formerly CLD Dist) is as good a place to get genuine Neutrik from. Buying cheap neutrik from ebay/amazon may not guarantee "authenticity", and hence what current they are actually capable of handling.

Most 2.5mm is good beyond the 20A rating of a Powercon. Distance et al derating factors ignored.

Some fault to be laid at the feet of whoever made them for you. If you make stuff, you should know the rules on what you are making?
Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains"
Back to Top
MattStolton View Drop Down
Old Croc
Old Croc
Avatar

Joined: 04 September 2010
Location: Walthamstow
Status: Offline
Points: 4234
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattStolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2019 at 5:19pm
Originally posted by imageoven imageoven wrote:

Originally posted by djgorey djgorey wrote:

It seems that my lack of knowledge has led me to spend more money than I needed on cables that are over-specc’d for what i need and fail pat tests! That’s an expensive lesson!


Swap the 13A plugs for 16A Ceeform...
Snap!
Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains"
Back to Top
djgorey View Drop Down
Young Croc
Young Croc
Avatar

Joined: 29 December 2007
Location: S. Wales
Status: Offline
Points: 1306
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote djgorey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2019 at 5:36pm
Originally posted by MattStolton MattStolton wrote:

 

Worst case, take the 13A plugs off, and wire a Powercon in (grey) on. Then buy some 13A to Powercon (blue) in 1.5mm, get some powercon couplers. (Square tubes with one of each blue and grey powercon chassis plug at opposite ends.)


This is what I thought. It means that if I’ve got useful cables that I can use
Gaffa tape is like the force in Star Wars - there's a dark side and a light side and it holds the universe together
Back to Top
MattStolton View Drop Down
Old Croc
Old Croc
Avatar

Joined: 04 September 2010
Location: Walthamstow
Status: Offline
Points: 4234
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattStolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2019 at 5:39pm
Also, The IET CoP for electrical in service testing, is just that, a Code Of Practice. A recommendation for the right/best way to do things, if you will.

It is something you should do; and if you do follow it, you are far less likely to kill, injure or cause damage. Equally, if you still manage to vaporize something or someone, and are up before M'Lord, if you can prove that you did everything by "the book", you sentence will be most likely reduced.

However, just that one CoP in isolation is not the whole story. There is BS7909 and BS7671 - 18th Ed especially is recognised by H&SE as being something that reduces risk of death and fire, if followed, and take a very dim view if you don't.

British and harmonised EN standards make sure manufacturers and importers do make stuff in a safe manor, fit for purpose. However, the quest for profits, and the Chinese doing what they are told for a price, can lead to many things that claim compliance, but aren't. The number of fake BS1363 ("13A") plugs on leadsets and applainces is worryingly prevalent.

Then there is PUWER and EaWR which you are legally obliged to comply with, as an employer or "company", i.e. try and make money from your activity, even if at a loss. Charities would also still need to comply with PUWER and EaWR AFAIK.

Ultimately PAT is "a" method of proving maintenance of your electrical appliances - maintenance, and proof thereof, is required by law as part of PUWER and EaWR.

If you had cheeaped out, and used 0.5mm, I would have taken the piss, but you went the right way for the right reason, and just got unlucky.
Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains"
Back to Top
Boxes-R-Blue View Drop Down
Registered User
Registered User
Avatar

Joined: 11 December 2018
Status: Offline
Points: 147
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boxes-R-Blue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 July 2019 at 1:45am
"Sparkius metiretur vestra"

I think I know the Irish brother of that quote!

LOL


Back to Top
jacethebase View Drop Down
Old Croc
Old Croc
Avatar

Joined: 23 September 2009
Location: Somerset
Status: Offline
Points: 5699
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jacethebase Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 July 2019 at 5:10pm
I have loads of 13a - 16a made with 1.5mm h07 built 30cm long.
Then 16a-powercon made out of 2.5mm h07 built 2m long.

www.wedding-production.co.uk

www.stage2sound.com
Back to Top
ceharden View Drop Down
The 10,000 Points Club
The 10,000 Points Club
Avatar

Joined: 05 June 2005
Location: Southampton
Status: Offline
Points: 11776
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ceharden Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 July 2019 at 10:55pm
My personal opinion:

While 2.5mmsq into a 13A plug is officially something you shouldn't do, IF the plug allows you to do it safely, assembles correctly, cord grip works properly etc, I can't see how it is introducing an additional risk into the system.

There are bigger issues out there, like the mobile coffee vendor I spotted on the weekend using a 32A ceeform male-male cable because he'd fitted an outlet as an inlet to his horsebox...  He also had a 13A plug to 32A male lying around too.  Or my father in law who wires 13A double sockets in his garage on 1mm T&E.

Back to Top
MattStolton View Drop Down
Old Croc
Old Croc
Avatar

Joined: 04 September 2010
Location: Walthamstow
Status: Offline
Points: 4234
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattStolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2019 at 10:18am
Originally posted by ceharden ceharden wrote:

My personal opinion:...


I agree, some decent branded plugs will allow 2.5 h07 into them, and close down correctly, with no crimp of cable, or gap between housing and plug.

I think that is where H07 has improved over the years, and the amount of insulation to make it 450/750V rated has reduced through better materials, hence got thinner.

However a BS1363 plug is fused at a max of 13A. Why you need more than 1.5mm, is only if you are doing something very long distance, in which case you are beyond the remit of what a 13A plug was designed for.

Don't forget it, and ring mains, were designed so that you could pick up your 3KW electric fire, and move it into whatever room you were in, at any one time. The ring allowed for a second person in a different room to do the same thing. The only other electric things back then would have been "the wireless", and maybe the odd house would have had a TV. And then some 5A round pin outlets for your 60W table lamps. Irons would have been heated on the Aga; domestic electric washing machines, fridges and freezers, etc all started being available in the late 50's, so very rare in a domestic setting until the 60's.

BS1363 (1947) and BS7671 11th Ed were being dreamt up as a solution to how to build good homes to replace those lost in WW2, during the end years of WW2. BS7671 11th Ed was 1939, with amendments in 43, 45, 46 and 48. "12th Ed" was 1950.

Originally posted by Wikipedia Wikipedia wrote:

In 1941 Lord Reith, then the minister of Works and Planning, established committees to investigate problems likely to affect the post-war rebuilding of Britain. One of these, the Electrical Installations Committee, was charged with the study of all aspects of electrical installations in buildings. Amongst its members was Dame Caroline Haslett, President of the Women's Engineering Society and an expert on safety in the home.[38] Convened in 1942, the committee reported in 1944, producing one of a set of Post War Building Studies that guided reconstruction.[39]

The plug and socket-outlet system defined in BS 1363 is a result of one of the report's recommendations. Britain had previously used a combination of 2 A, 5 A and 15 A round pin sockets. In an appendix to the main report (July 1944), the committee proposed that a completely new socket-outlet and fused plug should be adopted as the "all-purpose" domestic standard. The main report listed 8 points to consider in deciding the design of the new standard. The first of these was stated as, “To ensure the safety of young children it is of considerable importance that the contacts of the socket-outlet should be protected by shutters or other like means, or by the inherent design of the socket-outlet.” Others included flush fitting, no need for a switch, requirements for terminals, bottom entry for the cable, and contact design.[40] The appendix added 5 further "points of technical detail" including requirements that plugs could not be inserted incorrectly, should be easy to withdraw, and should include a fuse.[41]

This requirement for a new system of plugs and sockets led to the publishing in 1947 of "British Standard 1363:1947 Fused-Plugs and Shuttered Socket-Outlets".[42]

One of the other recommendations in the report was the introduction of the ring circuit system (often informally called a "ring main"). In this arrangement a cable connected to a fuse, or circuit breaker, in the distribution board was wired in sequence to a number of sockets before being terminated back at the distribution board, thus forming a ring final circuit. In the ring circuit, each socket-outlet was supplied with current by conductors on both sides of the 'loop.' This contrasts with the radial system (which is also used in the UK, often in the same installation) wherein a single cable runs out radially, like a spoke, from the distribution board to serve a number of sockets. Since the fuse or circuit breaker for a ring circuit has to be rated for the maximum current the ring could carry (30 A or 32 A for a breaker), additional protection is required at each socket-plug connection. Theoretically, such protection could have been designated either within the socket or within the plug. However, to ensure that this protection has a rating matched to the appliance flexible cord fitted to the plug, a fuse rated between 1 A and 13 A is incorporated into each plug. Wired connections may also be connected to the ring, and these are also required to include a suitably rated fuse. The ring circuit in the UK requires the use of BS 1363 plugs and sockets, but the BS 1363 system is not limited to use with ring circuits
Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains"
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2023 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.094 seconds.