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SKRAM 18 "

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Rune RC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rune RC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: SKRAM 18 "
    Posted: 27 September 2022 at 10:04am
Hi everyone

I have decided to build one Skram. But I am wondering if anyone have tried to modify the built to fit an 18" driver? 

Second: have anyone used an 18" for the original design? 
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smitske96 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 September 2022 at 10:16am
You can build it with a 18" but you need a 18" with a strong motor and high Xmax. These are expensive and the 21" versions are not that much more expensive.
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Rune RC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rune RC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 September 2022 at 10:48am
That is exactly the issue. The drivers in that size with that amount of power seem quite expensive. 

What was your experience with building them? We're the cuts manageable? I see parts of the assembly where it will be very tough if not impossible to screw the part together. 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 September 2022 at 11:10am
I have not build the skram, but cuts seem definately manageble. Bracing would take the longest probably.

Quality will always come at a price. You can go for cheap china stuff, but in my own experience you will always regret it in the long run.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bob4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 September 2022 at 5:14pm
As smitske pointed out, the price difference for example between 18ds115 and 21ds115 is less than 100€, that is a no-brainer imho. 21" has roughly  35% more cone surface.

If you have router to do housings/dados/grooves for all the panels and braces, you can assemble without screws. Just use clamps and ratchet straps to push everyhing together. Screws are obly needed to hold the panels in place until the glue has set. Once the glue is dry, and provided that the gllued surfaces have been joined well enough without any gaps, the glue joint is stronger than the wood itself. 
A dadoed joint will have even more glue surface and be yet stronger. The only challenge is to be precise. If the dadoes don't line up, you have a problem. 

Check out for example JulianDAs thread about his 15" front loaded horn, many diy builders nowadays take their time to prepare their builds, they do a dry-fit before glue and final assembly, to make sure everything is spot on.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rune RC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 September 2022 at 6:31pm
Agreed. I will go with the 21". Might as well do it right. 

I have been looking for cnc plans for the Skram, but haven't considered that the dado joints could be done with a router. 
But as you mention you would have to be precise for this to work. With some thorough drawings, and being a bit conservative when doing the carving it could be done. Interesting. 
Have you tried to use a router on some of your own projects?

Awesome, thanks for the suggestion. Dry-fit is definitely a good idea.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bob4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 September 2022 at 9:21pm
Hi Rune, I don't own a router. I only use hand tools beause of lack of space. But I have built a special hand plane for straight dadoes. I built a shelf with dadoes for the shelf boards. 

You can build router templates or guides to make it easier. It pays off especially if you plan to build more of the same cabinets later. A well laid out straight router guide can be quite versatile. You can build one easily from plywood, for example offcuts. If you think about it beforehand, depending on your wood supplier, if you can be present when they cut, you can ask the operator to saw a certain way to get suitable long pieces. For example if he will cut several pieces of the same width, he will probably do a rip cut the whole lenght of the sheet to establish the correct width.

Depending on the company's policy, and the mood of the operator, you might get lucky and get permission to take a few extra scraps. 


Edited by bob4 - 27 September 2022 at 9:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 September 2022 at 10:01am
Originally posted by Rune RC Rune RC wrote:

Agreed. I will go with the 21". Might as well do it right. 

I have been looking for cnc plans for the Skram, but haven't considered that the dado joints could be done with a router. 
But as you mention you would have to be precise for this to work. With some thorough drawings, and being a bit conservative when doing the carving it could be done. Interesting. 
Have you tried to use a router on some of your own projects?

Awesome, thanks for the suggestion. Dry-fit is definitely a good idea.  

It can get expensive (or you should know a 'guy') with cnc. If you say you are good at woodworking, I see not problem why you can't build it by yourself. You need a tablesaw and a router. Most important thing to make it nice is some templates for handles, m20 polemount etc. 




Edited by smitske96 - 28 September 2022 at 1:39pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imageoven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 September 2022 at 1:31pm
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Originally posted by Rune RC Rune RC wrote:

Agreed. I will go with the 21". Might as well do it right. 

I have been looking for cnc plans for the Skram, but haven't considered that the dado joints could be done with a router. 
But as you mention you would have to be precise for this to work. With some thorough drawings, and being a bit conservative when doing the carving it could be done. Interesting. 
Have you tried to use a router on some of your own projects?

Awesome, thanks for the suggestion. Dry-fit is definitely a good idea.  

It can get expensive (or you should no a 'guy') with cnc. If you say you are good at woodworking, I see not problem why you can't build it by yourself. You need a tablesaw and a router. Most important thing to make it nice is some templates for handles, m20 polemount etc.
A rail saw makes more sense unless you have dedicated workshop space and big money for high quality tablesaw.

Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cravings Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 September 2022 at 2:43pm
agreed. i have a cheap and small scheppach and it's handy the odd time for cutting small bits.. but it's got too much give in all directions to be accurate.

a good rail saw (track saw) is a must. how accurate your cuts are is the biggest factor in how well your boxes will go together so a good saw used carefully will serve you well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rune RC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2022 at 11:16am
A router and a trail saw is what I will get. Table saws are unfortunately both small and quiet expensive. 

My only concern when doing the dado joint is how to fit those to the cut plans that Ricci has provided. How am I going to take into account that some of the cuts will have to be smaller? 
Or is that already in the cut plan? Or was the the original build meant to be assembled with screw? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rune RC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2022 at 1:42pm
Would it be possible to combine a Skram with two Tham12, where the Thams would works as midbass? 
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