SKRAM 18 " |
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Rune RC
Registered User Joined: 20 September 2022 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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Posted: 27 September 2022 at 10:04am |
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Hi everyone
I have decided to build one Skram. But I am wondering if anyone have tried to modify the built to fit an 18" driver? Second: have anyone used an 18" for the original design?
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smitske96
Young Croc Joined: 16 February 2016 Location: The Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1085 |
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You can build it with a 18" but you need a 18" with a strong motor and high Xmax. These are expensive and the 21" versions are not that much more expensive.
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Rune RC
Registered User Joined: 20 September 2022 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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That is exactly the issue. The drivers in that size with that amount of power seem quite expensive.
What was your experience with building them? We're the cuts manageable? I see parts of the assembly where it will be very tough if not impossible to screw the part together.
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smitske96
Young Croc Joined: 16 February 2016 Location: The Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1085 |
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I have not build the skram, but cuts seem definately manageble. Bracing would take the longest probably.
Quality will always come at a price. You can go for cheap china stuff, but in my own experience you will always regret it in the long run.
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bob4
Old Croc Joined: 29 February 2004 Location: Finland/Germany Status: Offline Points: 1842 |
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As smitske pointed out, the price difference for example between 18ds115 and 21ds115 is less than 100€, that is a no-brainer imho. 21" has roughly 35% more cone surface.
If you have router to do housings/dados/grooves for all the panels and braces, you can assemble without screws. Just use clamps and ratchet straps to push everyhing together. Screws are obly needed to hold the panels in place until the glue has set. Once the glue is dry, and provided that the gllued surfaces have been joined well enough without any gaps, the glue joint is stronger than the wood itself. A dadoed joint will have even more glue surface and be yet stronger. The only challenge is to be precise. If the dadoes don't line up, you have a problem. Check out for example JulianDAs thread about his 15" front loaded horn, many diy builders nowadays take their time to prepare their builds, they do a dry-fit before glue and final assembly, to make sure everything is spot on. |
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Rune RC
Registered User Joined: 20 September 2022 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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Agreed. I will go with the 21". Might as well do it right.
I have been looking for cnc plans for the Skram, but haven't considered that the dado joints could be done with a router. But as you mention you would have to be precise for this to work. With some thorough drawings, and being a bit conservative when doing the carving it could be done. Interesting. Have you tried to use a router on some of your own projects? Awesome, thanks for the suggestion. Dry-fit is definitely a good idea.
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bob4
Old Croc Joined: 29 February 2004 Location: Finland/Germany Status: Offline Points: 1842 |
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Hi Rune, I don't own a router. I only use hand tools beause of lack of space. But I have built a special hand plane for straight dadoes. I built a shelf with dadoes for the shelf boards.
You can build router templates or guides to make it easier. It pays off especially if you plan to build more of the same cabinets later. A well laid out straight router guide can be quite versatile. You can build one easily from plywood, for example offcuts. If you think about it beforehand, depending on your wood supplier, if you can be present when they cut, you can ask the operator to saw a certain way to get suitable long pieces. For example if he will cut several pieces of the same width, he will probably do a rip cut the whole lenght of the sheet to establish the correct width. Depending on the company's policy, and the mood of the operator, you might get lucky and get permission to take a few extra scraps.
Edited by bob4 - 27 September 2022 at 9:23pm |
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smitske96
Young Croc Joined: 16 February 2016 Location: The Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1085 |
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It can get expensive (or you should know a 'guy') with cnc. If you say you are good at woodworking, I see not problem why you can't build it by yourself. You need a tablesaw and a router. Most important thing to make it nice is some templates for handles, m20 polemount etc. Edited by smitske96 - 28 September 2022 at 1:39pm |
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imageoven
Old Croc Joined: 28 March 2007 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 2186 |
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A rail saw makes more sense unless you have dedicated workshop space and big money for high quality tablesaw. |
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Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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cravings
Old Croc Joined: 30 January 2007 Location: Ireland Status: Online Points: 7441 |
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agreed. i have a cheap and small scheppach and it's handy the odd time for cutting small bits.. but it's got too much give in all directions to be accurate.
a good rail saw (track saw) is a must. how accurate your cuts are is the biggest factor in how well your boxes will go together so a good saw used carefully will serve you well. |
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Rune RC
Registered User Joined: 20 September 2022 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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A router and a trail saw is what I will get. Table saws are unfortunately both small and quiet expensive.
My only concern when doing the dado joint is how to fit those to the cut plans that Ricci has provided. How am I going to take into account that some of the cuts will have to be smaller? Or is that already in the cut plan? Or was the the original build meant to be assembled with screw?
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Rune RC
Registered User Joined: 20 September 2022 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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Would it be possible to combine a Skram with two Tham12, where the Thams would works as midbass?
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