Smoke machine problem

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   I have a martin magnum 2000 smoke machine that has gone wrong.

It will not pump any fluid when the button is pressed, all there is is a very slight hum from the pump. If I connect the pump to the mains it works fine so the pump is ok.

I have also tried changing the triac on the pcb that controls the pump and that made no difference.

Anyone got any ideas what could be wrong or had this problem before?

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
GAZ. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 16 January 2007 Location: Hertfordshire Status: Offline Points: 2430	Post Options Post Reply Quote GAZ. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Smoke machine problem Posted: 11 January 2009 at 1:18pm
	I have a martin magnum 2000 smoke machine that has gone wrong. It will not pump any fluid when the button is pressed, all there is is a very slight hum from the pump. If I connect the pump to the mains it works fine so the pump is ok. I have also tried changing the triac on the pcb that controls the pump and that made no difference. Anyone got any ideas what could be wrong or had this problem before?
	100% Earth Moving Bass

shagnasty Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 30 July 2007 Location: Guildford, UK Status: Offline Points: 7685	Post Options Post Reply Quote shagnasty Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 January 2009 at 1:57pm
	Ages since I worked on a magnum, but if your pump is good and you have replaced the triac only one of two things can be happening. The machine doesn't know you want it to pump -knackered switch, cable or didn't these babies use a 5 pin din? or the thing doesn't think it is hot enough to pump. If I remember correctly the "go" switch had two leds to show status, are you getting a green light to say the thing has reached temp? I not then I would suspect the termo-couple of the block (not the cut-out, that shuts off the [power in an over-temp situation. If you have a light but more pumping then I would meter from the remote to the din plug on all wires and if they seem good plug the remote into the main PCB and meter from the hanset end onto the track of the board as sometime the female din socket gets gundged up. I am assuming the triac you put in was the correct gate current, the BTA series have letter after the AMPSVOLTS number for gate current and you must use a similar one. Other thing the check is the 6 pin opto on the board that controls the triac gate, this is more likely to die than the triac itself... :-)

GAZ. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 16 January 2007 Location: Hertfordshire Status: Offline Points: 2430	Post Options Post Reply Quote GAZ. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 January 2009 at 7:02pm
	Thanks for that info mate. It has a little controller that goes in the back or can be taken out and connected to a 3 pin XLR cable to use remotely, that all seems to check out ok. The machine is also heating up and the ready light showing as normal. So I think I will try the opto next.
	100% Earth Moving Bass

mk2_ginger_biscuit69 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 03 November 2008 Location: Brighton Status: Offline Points: 7801	Post Options Post Reply Quote mk2_ginger_biscuit69 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 January 2009 at 2:41pm
	if the pumps pumping and its hot, could be something mucho simple such as a blockage in the tank feeder, silicone lines, or in the heating block itself. id drain the fluid, replace the tubing and make sure the outlet of the tank isnt covered in crud, then run about 1l of ionised water through it. if it makes it through, should degunc the glycol which sticks to the internals much like cholesterol in our bodies.