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SMT 212 w/ Build pics. |
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wafflesomd ![]() Young Croc ![]() Joined: 21 September 2007 Status: Offline Points: 811 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 28 August 2008 at 7:33pm |
Well, the pics will be on later :P
Managed to get 11 ply birch for $35 (U.S.) :) Will these be the only SMT212's in the U.S.? |
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wafflesomd ![]() Young Croc ![]() Joined: 21 September 2007 Status: Offline Points: 811 |
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Oh yah.
I as gonna go buy a bit to round the corners. What size should I get if I'm using 18mm ply. |
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sKs01 ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 11 April 2008 Location: sheffield Status: Offline Points: 1744 |
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18mm
![]() nice price on the ply btw. |
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You're a big man, but you're in bad shape. With me it's a full time job. Now behave yourself.
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wafflesomd ![]() Young Croc ![]() Joined: 21 September 2007 Status: Offline Points: 811 |
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Well, yah, I know what the bit is. There are different sizes though.
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login4 ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 03 April 2006 Location: Wales Status: Offline Points: 1552 |
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for my SMT212 build i used the smaller of the the two that came in my router bit pack
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CELTIC SUBSONIC SOUND SYSTEMS
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eltron ![]() Registered User ![]() Joined: 21 December 2007 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 399 |
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Quoted from the Speakerplans.com build guide by rog. In that case the example build was 18mm MDF. |
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doober ![]() Young Croc ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 January 2006 Location: Cornwall UK Status: Offline Points: 1118 |
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I prefer a 9mm radius on large cabs, 6mm can look a bit insignificant on anyting bigger than a 12"+horn cab. To avoid hitting the screws just countersink them a bit deeper, and always fill and sand before rounding over.
Is the SMT a trapezoid cab? if so use a smaller radius around the front, and do these edges first before doing the top and bottom with a 9mm. Kieran |
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Blahblahblah
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Static Age ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 14 November 2005 Location: Oxfordshire Status: Offline Points: 1652 |
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I like to do as much routing as i can while the cab is still a flat pack. That way i cant possibly hit a screw.
Edited by Static Age - 29 August 2008 at 4:51pm |
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hektik ![]() Registered User ![]() Joined: 12 October 2006 Location: NORFOLK Status: Offline Points: 217 |
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if ur good enuff you can do it with a soft pad on a grinder .and you wont hit screws..practice with a piece of scrap first...its really quik and quite easy wen uv had a bit of practice took me about 5 mins per cab ill put sum piks up of mine tmoro ....look in new projects ...then 18" mini scoops theres sum piks up now but thats before id rounded the corners..
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hektik ![]() Registered User ![]() Joined: 12 October 2006 Location: NORFOLK Status: Offline Points: 217 |
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there ya go
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wafflesomd ![]() Young Croc ![]() Joined: 21 September 2007 Status: Offline Points: 811 |
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I've got one built, minus the top and bottom. The rear of the cab ended up being around 200mm, not 195. So, I'm going to have to cut new ones specific to each cabinet.
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wafflesomd ![]() Young Croc ![]() Joined: 21 September 2007 Status: Offline Points: 811 |
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![]() I tried some Eminence compression drivers, sounded OK, but couldn't keep up with both twelves. Cabinet likes to resonate at around 150 hrtz, so I just EQ that out and they sound great. A little issue with the tweeter baffle. Baffle ended up not being long enough to reach the side walls. Cutting it down and just mounting it on top of that separating sheet worked. Edited by wafflesomd - 19 September 2008 at 3:12pm |
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