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Solder questions.

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Dub Specialist Sound View Drop Down
Old Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dub Specialist Sound Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 March 2020 at 6:13pm
Or use fastons...
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studio45 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote studio45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 April 2020 at 2:49pm
Fastons are quite good, but unless you are very good at crimping, and using quite thin cable, you still want to solder the cable into the Faston - and then heatshrink it for good measure.
Studio45 - Box Builder Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dub Specialist Sound Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 April 2020 at 5:11pm
Agreed for to say about heat - shrink, i built 100s of boxs and using 2.5mm in Fastons, quick easy...with good crimp
Musical Roots Reggae Vibration is Life! for music is sound...sound is vibration...vibration is energy... and energy begets life. Therein lies my passion!...MUSIC IS LIFE...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cuttinraza Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 April 2020 at 8:57pm
u know what pal u made me realise that ive many spare pairs of these in my carp kit, what a good move! thanks mr studio45
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Edited by cuttinraza - 01 April 2020 at 9:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Noyzmunky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2020 at 10:46am
I tin the wires, put a bit of shrink wrap over, faston the wires, then slide over the terminal and gently apply a little solder to that connection, then shrink wrap the lot in.

I frikking HATE trying to get fresh wire to stick to fresh terminals. Bollox to that for a larf. (I recently had to remind myself of these facts as I went through the process of making patch panels after 13 years from it.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote csg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2020 at 11:17am
I have to say ive never had an issue soldering onto speakon tabs, new or otherwise, even ones that have tarnished following storage. And often with a bog standard 25W Antex ( my toolbox iron when im not at my repair desk). Tin both parts, then bring together, mo further solder needed.
That said, i only use 40/60 tin lead flux cored solder. Irritatingly you now technically need to be a limited company with a credit account with a trade supplier to buy the stuff, something i only found out when i tried to order a new roll, and had to open a credit account to do so ( i own a limited company), something i don't bother with as i run the business debt and credit free. Another example of the nanny state...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bin juice24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2020 at 5:59pm
I’m a Ltd company, or director of.
Who supplies the lead stuff? Is it restricted for health reasons then? What precautions should one take? Don’t solder shit loads and inhale it? Work with it daily?
Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote csg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2020 at 6:17pm
I purchase from Rapid electronics usually, however all the usual suspects will have it.
It is restricted for health reasons, it should only  be used to repair existing equip That uses leaded solder, and for certain risk /safety critical areas such as military and aerospace applications.

Other than the obvious don't eat after handling before washing hands etc, then the most obvious risk is inhalation of flux fumes / vapor. The metals themselves wont be vaporized unless you like  soldering with a mapp gas torch etc, but flux vapor can be an irritant. Airflow management will deal with it in the vast majority of situations .

“The fact is this is about identifying what we do best and finding more ways of doing less of it better”
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowflake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2020 at 11:13pm
never had any problem doing this with lead-free solder, never needed flux. I can only think either you are using very thick wire and your iron isn't powerful enough to heat it up, or the terminals are dirty/corroded. or have you been running your iron at 450C and ruined the tip?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 April 2020 at 11:44am
Clean the tab with steel wool or emery paper 600 grit until it shines then try soldering. Your pic looks like it's well tarnished. Greg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VECTORDJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2020 at 2:13am
Hi, Use a metal file to rough up the tab so the solder can hold on to the new textured surface. Use solder with lead in it if possible.  For many years I used solder that My Father sourced from Bath Iron Works ( where they build USA warships). This solder had lots of lead in it.  He is retired and does not work there any more.  I now have to use the run of mill solder that does not stick without roughing up the surface.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BJtheDJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2020 at 3:17am
Originally posted by bin juice24 bin juice24 wrote:

I’m a Ltd company, or director of.
Who supplies the lead stuff? Is it restricted for health reasons then? What precautions should one take? Don’t solder shit loads and inhale it? Work with it daily?
Cheers


I buy from eBay, I don't use it a lot - only for mic cable repairs so I don't use a lot, but it's so much easier using the 60/40 that the non-lead stuff
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