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Unnamed Design by Lutkeveld (Development Thread)

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Teunos View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Teunos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 March 2017 at 12:33pm
Do yourself a favor and buy some liquid flux! appreciate the effort that obviously went into this, but soldering SMT like that is just a shame.
Pre-clean the pcb with IPA, flood the land pattern with flux, place component, flood with flux again to clen all pins, tack solder one pin after correctly aligning the part and then solder the pins left.
If you stayed in too long with the iron and the soldering still looks dodgy, apply flux again and retouch with the iron quickly.
Best regards,
Teun.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2017 at 6:54am
Originally posted by davey t davey t wrote:

Your output filter looks a bit suspect. If you are just making this for your own use and cables are short then just get rid of all the output filtering - it will extend your battery life a lot. 

You'll need to add an electronic bass boost to extend the low end of that sealed enclosure. What is your signal source, power supply, crossover etc? 

David

Output filter is a FB filter. Since this PCB will be used in active speakers, output leads will be <30cm. That will indeed improve battery life, plus it reduces cost and pcb size.

Bass boost is indeed needed :) My new PCB design has a DSP onboard, more on that in my next update post.

Originally posted by slaz slaz wrote:

Is htis gonna be battery powered ? Aimed at indoor or outdoor use ?

If battery power, I'd suggest removable battery compartment (a la soundboks) - opens options for the user to get extra battery life (by buying extra packs) and also possibly to choose mebbe 6S LiPo for full beans volume (would need good heatsink I guess - mebbe even forced cooling) or similar physical size 4S pack for ~double the runtime .... any auxiliary circuitry would need to tolerate ~15-30V supply I suppose.

Also, personally I favour the "ghettoblaster" form factor with a carry handle  ..... just the job for this size/weight - and lends itself quite nicely to carrying (and playing) on the back of a bike, for example.

Aimed at mixed use. I'll be using a 5S battery, which will give plenty power. It won't be removable, that would make this relatively small speaker much bigger. It's also not meant to go days on end like the SB. The PCB tolerates 5 to 26V, so it would be possible though. You can always make your own construction that allows for hotswapping while still using my PCB.

Originally posted by Teunos Teunos wrote:

Do yourself a favor and buy some liquid flux! appreciate the effort that obviously went into this, but soldering SMT like that is just a shame.
Pre-clean the pcb with IPA, flood the land pattern with flux, place component, flood with flux again to clen all pins, tack solder one pin after correctly aligning the part and then solder the pins left.
If you stayed in too long with the iron and the soldering still looks dodgy, apply flux again and retouch with the iron quickly.

I know, but this was for quick testing. My more recent proto's are made with flux and reflow. That looks much nicer indeed.

Originally posted by barrymossel barrymossel wrote:

Any news on this lutkeveld?

I'll be writing and update post in a short minute

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2017 at 7:21am
UPDATE

It has been a while since there was an update. Progress has been slow but steady.

There have been huge improvements in the PCB. The new PCB has:
-Onboard programmable DSP
-high power class D amplifier
-Bluetooth 3.0
-Microcontroller for all kinds of tasks

Based on:
-TAS5754M: 2x50W max class D amplifier with onboard programmable DSP with functions like dynamic bass boost, psycho acoustic bass enhancement, softclipping, dynamic range limiting and 5 biquads per channel
-RN52: high quality BT3.0 module with digital output for the TAS
-PIC16F: to program the DSP registers and handle tasks like low voltage disconnect, bicolor status led, read potentiometer/rotary encoder for volume control.

Everything you need in only 50x70mm. Amazing stuff if you ask me. No need for external heatsinks, crossovers and bluetooth modules.

This will be amazing for the whole DIY community. This PCB is applicable to all kinds of speakers due to the programmable DSP and big input voltage range. Main use cases will be:
-Woofer and tweeter (like in my prototype)
-full range assisted subwoofer
-dual full range

It takes 5-26V. That's 2-5S lithium-ion, 6,12,18V lead acid, 2-6S LiFePO4, 5,9,12,16,19,24V adapters. Lot's of possibilities.

At the moment I'm trying to get everything working correctly. If you have knowledge about I2S, PIC programming and/or I2C: shoot me a DM. I can always use help.

When it's finished I will be selling this to the DIY community. The idea is that you will specify your use-case and I'll send it to you pre programmed. Pre-ordering is still a few months away.

Empty:

Partly stuffed prototype and a breakout board for a new bluetooth module

Picture of an early prototype. Will be switching from lasercutting to CNC because rabbet joints are much easier to get airtight than these lasercut tabs.

I'm posting what I'm up to on Instagram. Once I finish the PCB I will be doing a lot projects which I will post here too. But for now insta is where the updates are.


Edited by lutkeveld - 02 April 2017 at 7:23am
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Teunos View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Teunos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2017 at 9:43am
If you can, select chips with SPI instead of I2C. I2C is a protocol that is driven open collector and should always be pulled up to the power line with different resistor values to the powerline giving sifferent slew rates that can be very hard to debug. Furthermore it requires adressing that is a bitch to get right sometimes. SPI is much easier and fool proof. It does require 3 io ports instead of 2 but is much easier to bit bang if you do not have the hardware implementation on the chip.
Most chips sold in I2C will also be available in SPI.
If you want to program anything, probably there is some arduino library available that should get your show on the road.
Best regards,
Teun.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darkmatter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2017 at 7:11pm
Looking really good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote barrymossel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2017 at 6:40pm
Looks great. Would love to hear when you will be selling the PCB. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Padde298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 June 2017 at 11:49am
@lutkeveld Looks AWSOME!!!
You are covering a lot of the problems I have been struggling with over the last couple of years, making small BT speakers. Your "all in one" package is DEAD ON for me, and I'll be one of the first in line to buy a few of the boards! Keep the information coming! Hooked up on Instagram also...Hug
LOUDER!!! MO BASS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4AC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2017 at 10:59am
Very nice looking project!

Originally posted by lutkeveld lutkeveld wrote:

Driver choice

Selecting the woofer is the most difficult task, so that’s the first choice. Tweeter choice will depend on which woofer is selected. Parts Express has a great selection and can thus be used as a tool for driver selection.


I see you're from the Netherlands also. Dayton nowadays also has a Dutch importer: https://www.soundimports.eu/nl/ May help you with shipping costs and shipping time.
uǝɿɿɐʌǝ6ɯo sı ʇsʞǝʇ ǝzǝp
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davey t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2017 at 12:01pm
Ignore what he said about I2C. I2C is the only and easiest way to program the Ti amp. 

good luck with the PIC software! Make sure you get the largest pic memory in the 16F range and be clever how you use it. Converting the GDE output files into the PIC memory will be fun for you. 


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