U-Pol Raptor paint pics |
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kevinmcdonough
Old Croc Joined: 27 June 2005 Location: Glasgow Status: Offline Points: 3751 |
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Posted: 12 July 2019 at 1:41pm |
hey all
have mentioned this before, but as the paint question comes up every other month, here are some pics of uPol Raptor sprayed on some power boxes and a little rack unit I'm making. I did a decent enough job of sanding and preping before hand, but didn't go crazy as these are just for my own use. Still, it's ridiculously easy to get a professional looking finish. Just add the hardner to the bottle and shake, bottle screws directly onto the very reasonably priced spray gun, and spray. Long as you have a good compressor it's super easy to get started, though importantly if you're spraying inside then you will need a proper air fed breathing mask as it has some nasty chemicals in it. Even outdoors, a good breathing mask is still a must. Its a polyurethane paint, so shares a lot of similarities with Line-X (which is Polyurea). While the line x is more like a spray on plastic that needs specialised equipment and dries pretty much instantly, the Raptor is more like normal paint and takes 20-30 mins to get touch dry, and about 7 days to really achieve full hardness. But at the end of the process it gives a finish and toughness that is about as close as you can get to Line X in a DIYable package. Edited by kevinmcdonough - 12 July 2019 at 2:20pm |
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discosucks
Old Croc Joined: 06 November 2009 Status: Offline Points: 1548 |
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Nice work!
Its tough stuff! I did the sides an underbelly of my van in it . <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/dnXXWtC"><a href="//imgur.com/a/dnXXWtC"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Edited by discosucks - 13 July 2019 at 8:59am |
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gen0me
Young Croc Joined: 20 February 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 999 |
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Is this the finish without "Traction" component?
How many layers?
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kevinmcdonough
Old Croc Joined: 27 June 2005 Location: Glasgow Status: Offline Points: 3751 |
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Hey, Not sure what you mean by "traction" component, like solid particles in the paint? Nope this was just the product as is, add the hardner to the plastic bottle, shake, screw the bottle straight onto the gun and spray. This was about 2 coats worth, but the finish was pretty much the same even after one coat, just added a second to build up some more depth and scratch resistance. For speakers I'd maybe have added an extra coat to be even more thorough but the little rack case will live inside a Peli and won't be banged about too much, and the 6 long black things will be little 13a power distro's, so finish doesn't have to be 100% perfect, they'll get banged about the floor anyway. k
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toastyghost
The 10,000 Points Club Joined: 09 January 2007 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 10919 |
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It’s really durable with enough cure time and multiple coats, but the finish is way too rough and abrasive for me. It’s literally like sandpaper. Still better than Warnex or Tuff Cab, but it’s worth springing for proper Line X or PU.
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gen0me
Young Croc Joined: 20 February 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 999 |
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Here I saw this Traction. Not much of explanation though:
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I appreciate every like :)) https//www.facebook.com/genomesoundsystems
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kevinmcdonough
Old Croc Joined: 27 June 2005 Location: Glasgow Status: Offline Points: 3751 |
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Think a lot depends on how you spray it, those were fairly rough just cos I was doing it fairly quickly, but spending a little time experimenting with nozzle sizes and air flow etc you can get it much smoother.
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kevinmcdonough
Old Croc Joined: 27 June 2005 Location: Glasgow Status: Offline Points: 3751 |
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Aww ok, yeah I didn't realise they had a Traction product you could add to it to make it much gripper. No mine was just the paint and hardener.
K |
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Digbethdave
Registered User Joined: 16 November 2018 Status: Offline Points: 406 |
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More on the stage mains boxes please
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kevinmcdonough
Old Croc Joined: 27 June 2005 Location: Glasgow Status: Offline Points: 3751 |
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A more refined idea of little boxes I built years ago. A 16a in on one side, some metal 13a sockets in the middle then a 16a out/through on the other side. They're painted with the black speaker paint on all sides except the bottom, which will be carpeted. They have high sides, which means those little notches need cut in the side so that the wires of whatever is plugged into the 13s can come out through there, but the reason for doing this (rather tha. Just having smaller sides) is that if you're on an outdoor stage and it gets a bit showery, they can be flipped over and the sockets are protected from the rain (or from thrown beer/piss!). The high sides hold the sockets (and whatever plugs are in) up of the ground, and the cables can still get out through those notches. Obviously they're not gonna be totally waterproof in a downpore, but at that point you'd be closing the stage anyway no power would be safe. But as is often the case here in Scotland if it gets just a bit drizzly then it keeps the power out of the wet. Will add some pics once the sockets and carpet are added and it's all done. K
Edited by kevinmcdonough - 13 July 2019 at 3:00pm |
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markie
Old Croc Joined: 31 October 2005 Location: Sunny Liskeard. Status: Offline Points: 4570 |
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What size compressor do you need for this?
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If it's got wheels or tits it's gonna cost a fortune
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kevinmcdonough
Old Croc Joined: 27 June 2005 Location: Glasgow Status: Offline Points: 3751 |
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One I used was fairly cheap 90l just cos that's what I have, but was probably overkill for this, could have gotten away with 50l fine i'm sure. On the paint instructions it says it also works fine with HVLP systems. edit: this exact one here..... Edited by kevinmcdonough - 13 July 2019 at 4:34pm |
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