What amps would you choose for my Ohm speakers? |
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Mat
New Member Joined: 10 November 2019 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Posted: 13 November 2019 at 7:58pm |
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Hi All, Over the past year i'e been buying bits and pieces and putting together a small hobby rig which i hope to be able to put to a variety of uses:- 2 x Ohm TRS112 (8R 300W RMS) 2 x Ohm Moonsub (8R 700W RMS - unusual as usually 4R) 4 x Ohm BR-6 (8R 200W RMS - old version of current BRT-26) 2 x Ohm CFU A2 amps (650W into 8R Stereo) BSS London Blu102 dsp Currently i'm looking into getting a new amp or two, the CFU A2s weigh a tonne and i think one might have a fault. I need some more channels to be able to run all the boxes, plus i'm not sure that an A2 is optimum for the Moonsubs.Also a consideration is the option of re-coning the Moonsubs to 4R to be able to use a smaller amp. If this were yours what amps would you want to be using and why? Look forward to your thoughts, thanks.
Edited by Mat - 13 November 2019 at 8:02pm |
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AM55
Old Croc Joined: 16 August 2007 Location: Matlock Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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What is your budget?
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Mat
New Member Joined: 10 November 2019 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Budget undecided, total spend so far circa £1.5k so MC2, powersoft etc are probably too expensive but i could always be persuaded if a good deal were to be had and i could convince myself it appropriate. Maybe upto £1k for a couple of amps to run TRS112 ans Moon Subs? Kind of why i'm asking the more hypothetical question of what amps you'd buy rather than what amps are 'best' - I'm interested to hear opinions. I've read up a fair bit, amp for the subs some say should be 2x RMS power rating of cabinets to allow headroom for peaks but for 8R 700W boxes that's a very big amp (Crown 5000?) so i wonder if its better and cheaper to recone them to 4R. Also, how different will a 1400W per channel amp sound to a 700W per channel amp really sound? Whatever i do i don't want to think i've compromised on sound quality. Consensus is generally that the cheaper modern class D stuff isnt up to sub duties at all, so older AB seems like a better bet - QSC PL, Macrotech, Crest (heavy?). Intereted to hear peoples thoughts on this, thanks.... |
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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Sae pqm13 / elements audio cd8000
Matrix 6004 Both 4 channel. If you're not kicking the arse out of it, beg steal or borrow one to try. Think you'll be surprised. I was running 2 tops and 2 x 215 subs with 2x600w drivers in each off my matrix. Ran it fine for 10 or so gigs while I saved up for bass amp to run next phase of gear! Edited by JonB67 - 14 November 2019 at 8:23am |
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djkeet
Registered User Joined: 26 December 2011 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 462 |
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Also could consider Soundgear Saturn 10 0r 16
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Soundbite
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Conanski
Old Croc Joined: 26 January 2006 Location: Ottawa, Canada Status: Offline Points: 2537 |
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Mat. I am not going to make specific amp suggestions because I'm across the pond and don't know what is available or common in your market, so I'll just make a few points. Nobody used RMS to rate speakers anymore, the ratings on the Ohm website are AES so you need to look that up and see how it is different than RMS sine wave ratings. The first rating is continuous, then program, then peak and usually it's only the first one that has any real long term testing behind it, the other two are calculated at 3db steps up and are strictly very short duration peak ratings. In this case there is no better way to find out what size amps would be appropriate than to simply look at what Ohm puts in the powered version of some of these cabs. Yes the manufacturer is probably going to err on the safe side to a certain extent when it comes to sizing amplifiers but they won't leave a ton of potential on the table either. I'm not sure how you could utilize all these speakers in a single system unless it was for a live band type event where the BR6's could be used as monitors, just stacking it all up isn't going to work well and even fully powered it's not likely you would even hear the BR6s over the larger boxes. Forget about cramming maximum power into the subs, 4ohms vs 8ohms versions of the same driver often end up producing the same SPL because the 4ohm version has a lower sensitivity and that last 3dB of output gets eaten up with power compression(voice coil heating). And subs are where you want to exercise a bit more caution with power, I got no problem putting 2x program power behind mids and highs but that will cook subs in short order with many modern music genres. So all that said I'd suggest 500w for the 112's and 1000w for the subs, class D will be fine for the subs but I prefer class AB for mids and highs. |
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Chris Grimshaw
Registered User Joined: 10 September 2018 Location: Sheffield Status: Offline Points: 281 |
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I'd check out the Powersoft T604. You can get them for much cheaper than the RRP, and it comes with plenty of DSP built-in. Chris
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Quality sound from Sheffield
www.grimshawaudio.com |
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Mat
New Member Joined: 10 November 2019 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Hi, thanks for your message, some good points much appreciated. I quoted RMS power as that's the unit used on the datasheets for these legacy products. Good idea to look at the powered versions, taking the TRS112A as an example they have a 500W and 50W amplifier on board, so not far off double the AES/RMS rating of the passive version at 300W AES. The BR-6s were my first acquisition and when deploying the TRS tope and Subs might make good DJ monitors, hadn't considered using them as monitors for a live performance, thats probably not on the cards for me any time soon. I've been thinking they might be useful on delays to fill in the back as pairs or spread out to cover an odd shaped venue, or use them with one sub for a smaller space or somewhere requiring less level. Also maybe in a 'distributed' system for low level speech reinforcement. Really interested in your points on powering the subs. My idea about converting to 4R was just to be able to use a smaller, cheaper, lighter amp to acheive the same power delivery. My intention is to have a mode with the DSP so it could be left 'unattended' and id be confident that its suitably limited to protect the drivers. The Ohm Moonsub is a sealed box and is known to melt coils if driven over the stated power rating due to heat biuld-up which id obviously want to completely avoid. Id just like to be able to run it up to close to maximum knowing the amplifier isnt a limiting factor. Thank you to everyone else for specific amp suggestions, plenty of food for thought there! Mat
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Conanski
Old Croc Joined: 26 January 2006 Location: Ottawa, Canada Status: Offline Points: 2537 |
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Yep you are not alone. Problem is the industry has gone a bit mad with hugh power amps and subs and it's all a bit misdirected. Speakers are primarily voltage driven devices, the amount of power consumed is just a byproduct. What we really should be doing is selecting amps with higher output voltage rails and using relatively high impedance drivers... 8 or even 16ohms. That will produce the same SPL as a low impedance system consuming 2-4 times more power and be much more reliable because the drivers aren't producing so much waste heat.
Edited by Conanski - 14 November 2019 at 3:29pm |
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Digbethdave
Registered User Joined: 16 November 2018 Status: Offline Points: 406 |
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Lab fp
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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Guy says his budget is £1000 and the recommendations are powersoft t604 and lab gruppen fp?
Any links to where these amps are available for £1000? |
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toastyghost
The 10,000 Points Club Joined: 09 January 2007 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 10919 |
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Quite. Have a look at SoundGear's Saturn 10 DSP, plenty of juice, DSP included, forum member supply and well supported. |
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