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What Is The Best Filler? |
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_banksy_ ![]() Registered User ![]() Joined: 18 January 2010 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 31 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 14 March 2010 at 2:56pm |
Hey all,
I am building a pair of 186 Horns and due to some warped plywood some gaps need filling!! Now I understand these Horns shall be exposed to extreme vibrations! So whats the best filler to use? I have made one mix of fine Plywood shavings mixed with wood glue into a thick paste but maybe there is a better option out there? I intend to paint over the filler with Tuff cab paint. Any input appreciated, cheers. Will |
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BreakBeat!
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Ryan94 ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 07 February 2009 Location: Buckinghamshire Status: Offline Points: 1824 |
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i just use normal wood filler and it seems to work fine. but Ive herd that car body filler is ment to be good. i did try the shavings and glue idea once but took ages to sand down so never used it again.
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cravings ![]() Old Croc ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 January 2007 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 7392 |
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yeah most on here use car body filler. isopon p38 is one, i used that for a while.. there's cheaper ones.. u-pol or something i think is cheaper, and i haven't noticed a difference.
i'm thinking of trying to add some pigment to filler to make it black or at least darker. it can take quite a few coats of paint to disguise it. |
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Pirlo ![]() Registered User ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 February 2010 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 244 |
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Good thread, got a question about it as well.
More about filling paste in a cabinet but should match the topic. In wich way the "structure" of the filler effects the audio-signal in the cabinet!? It's better/necessary to haul the material after hardened? Ask because got exvibration (glassfiber/bitumen-stuff) left from my last car-audio-constructions and when a rough surface (thats what ya got after drying)is no problem for the "air-flow" than it should be ideal to seal up the birch-ply-carbinet. What do ya think!? thanks in advance... Edited by Pirlo - 15 March 2010 at 12:18am |
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_banksy_ ![]() Registered User ![]() Joined: 18 January 2010 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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I used U-Pol EasyLite, its the same as isopol but a bit cheaper. its fantastic! creates a really strong joint
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BreakBeat!
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rich_gale ![]() Old Croc ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 February 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2697 |
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imo big gaps need filling with a thin piece of ply cut to slide into the gap and glued. p38/p40 wont be great on joins because it wont actually bond the wood together. sawdust/pva will work as well.
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REFLEX ALL THE WAY.... (however, im playing with horns again...) That ok Mister Valiant? :)
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_banksy_ ![]() Registered User ![]() Joined: 18 January 2010 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Yeah its obviously not for joining the wood, just filling the small gap on the outside edges of angled joints, the woodglue / shavings is what i use for any large gaps.
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BreakBeat!
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Bryan M ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 17 July 2004 Location: England/Belgium Status: Offline Points: 2223 |
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Love the search function on this site, sooooo much useful info at your finger tips.
I had a crowd barrier take some pretty nasty chunks out of my psychos a month ago and i want to make them look like new again before the next time i take them out. By the looks of it isopon 38 seems like a popular choice. Where is the best place to buy it cheaply from online? Bryan |
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cravings ![]() Old Croc ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 January 2007 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 7392 |
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dunno online. i buy it from car places (motor factors).
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_banksy_ ![]() Registered User ![]() Joined: 18 January 2010 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Halfords its cheap enough, u-pol easylite is cheaper and does the exact same thing
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BreakBeat!
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