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X1 Sub pland needed

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jimafm View Drop Down
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    Posted: 04 March 2007 at 2:11pm
Help, I'm confused.  Wait; maybe I'm not.  I downloaded the one page of plans for Rog's X1 sub, but I just don't understand it.  The response curve looks just like what I need to add to a stack of EV Sentry IV (dual 12" W boxes) to get the bottom octave.  Now, all I need to know is how to build it.  Anybody got a better set of plans?
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote norty303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2007 at 2:16pm
Moved to the correct section.
 
What in particular don't you understand?
 
All of the information is there, and you've got 3 elevations, i'm not sure there is such a thing as a better set of plans.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimafm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2007 at 2:38pm
OK, I've got a side view, that would seem to indicate a duct 417mm long by 120mm high at the bottom of the cabinet.  The back view shows how to load the speaker, which I assume faces the top of the box.  Then I look at the front view, and it looks like that bottom duct runs the entire 570mm width, BUT, there's also what appears to be the same size duct at the top of the front view.  What's the length of this duct if it is, in fact, a duct?
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote markie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 5:04am

The bottom port is indeed 120mm high by 417 long and is the full width of the cab, with a front to back brace.

The top port is again 120mm by 252, and again full width of the cab.
 
The only thing I can see which might cause confusion is the line on the plan which continues horizontally after the angle of the baffle....... this is a brace in the centre of the port which goes all the way to the rear of the cab.
 
The photograph at the top of the page should make things clear as it is the X1 (to the left of the "Speakerplans.com" heading).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote norty303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 5:36am
Here's some better/bigger pictures
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimafm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 11:18am
Norty,
 
Thank you VERY much for the photos.  Now that I know how it's built, does anyone have any better idea for a maximum efficiency box that'll handle 30 to 120Hz?
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jochen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 12:13pm
If you are looking for a box that can handle 30Hz to 120Hz an X1 is not your best choice.  A lot of forummembers suggest an upper crossover point of 60Hz.  From 60Hz to 120Hz you should use a kick bin like the HD15.

When used for hiphop, rap, r&b, ... an upper crossover point of 90 or 100 Hz might do the trick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote norty303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 12:58pm
Getting 30 to 120hz out of 1 box is going to be difficult unless its a big reflex box i'd have thought.  Even then it might not have the punch needed due to the low tuning.
 
Surely your 12" W bins will play below 120hz?


Edited by norty303 - 05 March 2007 at 12:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimafm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 1:54pm
Yes, the EV Sentry IVBs will play below 120Hz, but that's where I'd like to cross them over in order to increase their power handling capacity.  Also, I'm loading the cabinets with a higher efficiency speaker that is designed for mid range vs. low bass.  This is for PA use, not Hi-Fi, and will wind up as a quad-amped system for maximum efficiency.
 
The X1's f3 points on Rog's site are 31Hz and 119Hz, and very smooth in between, so this looks like my best choice, unless someone knows of a better one!
 
In high level PA systems, I've found that if I can keep the different speaker components to no more than two octaves each, I get less cone breakup and a lot more peak power.  I can also drive each device harder, because I'm crossing over an octave or so above it's lower cutoff point.   The failure on cone drivers is over excursion, not over heating.  With good limiting,  and by lowering the excursion, they work quite a bit better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote norty303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 3:53pm
What frequency do you cutoff the W's on the upper end?  Most folded horns will start to sound a bit funny above ~220hz, which mean thats not  much bandwidth they're covering.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimafm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 6:10pm
Actually, due to the drivers used and the box design, EV manages to get good response up to about 1.2KHz.  These are relatively short horn lengths. and we plan on getting into the upper midrange horns at about 800Hz anyway.
 
I'll agree; folded horns aren't my favorite either.  Good old-fashioned front loaded horns like those made by JBL and Altec are much sweeter.  For this particular application, however, the smaller size and slightly higher efficiency have resulted in using the EV Sentry IV B.  The other main consideration over size and efficiency is that we already own them!
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote norty303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 7:00pm
Quote Actually, due to the drivers used and the box design, EV manages to get good response up to about 1.2KHz
 
Wow, thats very high, are the horn paths smoothe then with very shallow angles?  If not how does the path affect the sound?
 
We had some discussion on here a while back about how Nexo managed to keep their SI2000 bass sounding sweet up to 300hz but 1.2khz is another ballpark completely
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