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audioalliance
Registered User Joined: 10 July 2007 Location: Trinidad and Tobago Status: Offline Points: 144 |
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Posted: 23 March 2009 at 8:07pm |
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15” + 1” Top / Full range - 15” = P-Audio SN-15MB or P-Audio WN-15S 1” = P-Audio BM-D450 on P-Audio PH-3220 Usable between 60Hz and 18KHz Run Active or Passive[1.8KHz/12dB lo, 2.2KHz/18dB high.] I saw these boxes in a list of builds here on speakerplans, they look impressive to me, especially since they're smaller than the X15's. I am wondered though if anyone had any experiences using them or something similar? I'm loading them with some BL15-300X (15inch) + CDX1-1430 driver all Celestion plus I'm gonna run some passive Dayton XO2W-4.5K 2-Way Crossover 4,500 Hz crossovers in there. On another note.., How much wadding is enough for this box? I read that wadding can be more than 3-4 inches thick once the vents are not blocked. |
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nickyburnell
Old Croc Joined: 06 February 2005 Status: Offline Points: 4410 |
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EV Deltamax (ish). Also like CVA cabs. Works well. Mine sound better to me with no wadding, stuff always has, that could be my ears though as others disagree.
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It's everything, not everythink!
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ceharden
The 10,000 Points Club Joined: 05 June 2005 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 11776 |
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When it comes to reflex boxes like this, the size and shape is very much down to personal preference. The size basically determines how much output you'll get from the port and the response immediately above it. As long as the port ends up being tuned to somewhere sensible (close to the free air resonant frequency of the driver is normal) you'll be fine. Especially as in most cases you'll be running an active crossover with some subs and not using the output of the mid-top in the frequency range where the port is active.
4.5kHz is far too high. You need to be looking at 2-2.5khz region for a passive crossover. If you use a 24dB/oct passive crossover you could probably get away with taking it as low as 1.6kHz, depending on the 1" compression driver. Wadding needs to be done by ear really. Start with none then add some and see what difference it makes. 2-3 inches is normal but depends on what material you're using. Start by just wadding the back of the box to stop reflections back through the cone. |
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audioalliance
Registered User Joined: 10 July 2007 Location: Trinidad and Tobago Status: Offline Points: 144 |
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I got the horns and crossovers 2.5khz and will start building the boxes this weekend.
I'll run the ports back 3 inches along the box with a slant on the front/ back edges so as to reduce port noise (chuffing). One question though...... What does the wadding really do for boxes? I mean some people say use wadding some say don't not to mention I've seen store bought boxes with and without wadding. Does wadding ensure a deeper bass, does it ensure all the air moves towards the front of the box etc. What the hell does this "wadding" do for sound enhancement/ reinforcement. |
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jonminns
Old Croc Joined: 13 April 2008 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1877 |
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Wadding is essentially loft insulation or other sound absorbing material
It stops reflections and deadens the box to prevent reverberations etc Jon |
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Mark James
Old Croc Joined: 15 January 2006 Location: rig side Status: Offline Points: 5309 |
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Wadding needs to be done by ear really. that sounds a bit dodgy might be that its a saturday night but that does sound a little dodgy...... |
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me so horny me love you long throw
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Glenn
Registered User Joined: 01 October 2008 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 197 |
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I would consider moving the horn fully to one side and have a single large port.
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audioalliance
Registered User Joined: 10 July 2007 Location: Trinidad and Tobago Status: Offline Points: 144 |
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I thought so myself. That's gonna be A WHOLE LOTTA testing after a build.... JEEEEZ. Nevertheless I built them Friday and placed 2 inches of wadding on back and sides. I tested them long and hard at a outdoor event yesterday (11am - 2am) with about 300 people . The Results - They played really loud, even into the far off car park but the horns kept giving off a strange "clicking" noise once certain bassy tracks were played. Also there was a considerable amount of bass coming from behind the cab and not as much when compared to the front. I pulled down the horns and noticed that my tech buddy had installed an additional bass filter along with the crossovers on the horn's driver. Today I'll put in the 4 inch slanted channels for the vents this should make some improvements to the sound and air flow of the cabs. And maybe I dunno..., some more wadding... QUESTION: I hope you guys don't think it to far fetched but would the 15 driver give more if it was not connected to the crossover...?
The design I've attempted is similar to the midtop of the void viper rig but I've seen some designs with the horn to one side as you suggested. Can you explain what would be some of the benitits. It shouldn't be to difficult to do a rebuild. Edited by audioalliance - 29 March 2009 at 10:04pm |
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audioalliance
Registered User Joined: 10 July 2007 Location: Trinidad and Tobago Status: Offline Points: 144 |
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Picked this up at http://www.diysubwoofers.org/faq.htm regarding wadding cabs What happens if the box is too small? If the box is too small will typically result in a boomy system that appears to have strong midbass and less low bass. Typically power-handling is improved though, unless the box is REALLY too small! You can compensate somewhat for a small box volume by adding stuffing to the box. The stuffing can make the box appear up to 40% larger to the driver. Note that sealed systems are generally a lot more tolerant of variation in box volume than are the other tuned-port systems such as the ported and bandpass systems. Edited by audioalliance - 30 March 2009 at 8:13am |
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audioalliance
Registered User Joined: 10 July 2007 Location: Trinidad and Tobago Status: Offline Points: 144 |
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Done.... And they're kicking major buttocks.... Ran them and they sound great also I did add some polyester stuff and it did make a big difference in the depth of bass I get now. I don't have to push 'em as much to get a good sound out of them.
Now building some scaled down (10cm smaller) punishers to place with them. |
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Jake_Fielder
Old Croc Joined: 08 October 2007 Status: Offline Points: 4231 |
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why scaled down punishers?
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audioalliance
Registered User Joined: 10 July 2007 Location: Trinidad and Tobago Status: Offline Points: 144 |
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Portability, weight, space constraints etc. I'm move my stuff alone most times and I do get inside outside gigs, hence I need a nice bottom end that can do both types of events. Punishers seems cheap to build plus they're very loud and can go very low. The only thing I've heard is they're on the heavy and takes two people to move one box. So scaling them down may reduce weight somewhat and I can carry more of 'em in the hatchback car |
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