1850 Cut list - A gift to you

b grade wrote: Interesting.  I like how you did brace 13.  I made mine the same shape as on the plan, but yours helps to support that pannel 10.  The joint between panel 9 and 10 on mine is by far the weakest joint in my build, as it is really hard to screw those two panels together from the dead space.  I suppose I could have done so before installing them, but I did not think of doing that when I was building.

Thats the exact reason brace 13 is bigger and a stupid shape as apposed to the original plans.  Couldn't help but feel panels 9 & 10 wouldn't be solid enough without it.

Got a few to get through so expect some build pics soon 

b grade wrote: The thing I did differently from the plans, was to lower the panel at the bottom of the chamber slightly as it seemed to be right where I wanted the bolts to go through to hold on the access panel.  I still attached it to the same corner at the front, but instead of having it go flush with the door, it went straight perpendicular from the back wall which was down about 2.5 cm from the batten edge.  Slightly increases the chamber volume, but made no difference in sim.

Yeah I noticed that when revising the plans, I figured I'd get around the problem by using appropriate pilot holes and cutting bolts down so they're only as long as they need to be. So the bolts will go through the access panel, through the 'batons' that hold the access panel in place, through the t-nut and then into the panel that acts as the bottom of the chamber by only a few milliliters. 

you are one beautiful man !

just what i needed to find dude 

For the baffle, you can cut the driver circle with either a jigsaw or a router and jig. Personally I just use a jigsaw unless the circle is going to be visible. You still need the router for the roundover at the edges though, and then you need a straight cut bit and a round over bit. For the panels, you can do a lot of it with a hand held circular saw and a good straight edge, though a festool type is better. The bevel angles require some precision. My Table saw works best for that, but if you have a really good hand held (I don't) it may be fine. You need a drill/driver. You need good strong glue. Much debate about the best glue. Depending what you go with, you may need a caulking gun. Some kind of sander and sand paper of various grit size. Extra coarse will remove excess wood but be careful not to wreck the veneer with it, and fine will smooth the surface before painting. You will need some clamps. Big and small. Lots of clamps, especially if you are making more than one at a time, which everyone does pretty much. Meter stick and or Measuring tape. I also like to have some cargo straps to use where clamps are awkward. Putty knife and woodfiller, or something like it (Glue and sawdust, autobody filler etc. Much debate on this too) to fill the screw holes. Contersink bit to allow the screws to go below grade. Some screws can pull in by themselves, but this can buckle the veneer so I like to use the bit. Whatever painting supplies you need for whatever paint you use (much debate again). Soldering gun and solder supplies. Maybe a staple gun if you use any wadding. Lots of sharp pencils, because they keep disappearing (maybe that is just me). Do it outside if you can. If you must do it inside, you need ventilation but also you want an airtight seal to the rest of the house unless you really love dusting. The driver and access panel will require bolting (much debate, I use the dreaded Tee nuts). Gasket tape for the access panel, and something to cut it. 

Edited by b grade - 19 October 2015 at 7:47pm