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Booty Bass Build |
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ash pegs 
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Joined: 07 October 2009 Location: Great Bookham Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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 Topic: Booty Bass BuildPosted: 23 June 2013 at 5:25pm |
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Alright guys first of all this is MY FIRST EVER BUILD so please be nice!
I am making Davey T's booty bass cab but slightly modified to make it smaller - I'm actually planning on using this in a car. Here's Davey's original thread: I've reduced the width of the cab from 90cm to 88cm and the height has been reduced from 60cm to 46.6cm, so obviously the Vb is now much lower than Davey intended. I'm planning on mounting the drivers magnet-out to help with this. I have borrowed a pair of PD156 which I'm hoping will work in this cab. Here's my modified plan  and here are some pics of my build so far  yes I'm using mdf!  the above piece I cut the wrong size for both the right and left so I had to cut two more pieces the correct size   of course I am also adding several bits of bracing that are not on the original plans   Will add some more for you as I get more done any comments welcome! Ash
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don't forget the cables
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Edd Jordan
Young Croc 
Joined: 10 January 2008 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1364 |
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Posted: 26 June 2013 at 3:55pm |
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looking good!
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I do a sideline in ply wood wheels.
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ash pegs
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Joined: 07 October 2009 Location: Great Bookham Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Posted: 14 July 2013 at 10:53pm |
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Got all my bits of wood together and I'm quite happy so far!
 Both sides done and centre in place  I made the cross braces from one of the baffle cutouts, using the same curve   Decided one handle per side would be enough as I'm not intending on lugging it about too often  Got the top piece marked out and countersunk  Glue time!   Lid finally attached  Could somebody please let me know whether this type on cab will benefit from wadding? Thanks |
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don't forget the cables
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lycantheleopard
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Joined: 01 April 2012 Location: san jose ca usa Status: Offline Points: 428 |
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Posted: 15 July 2013 at 4:48am |
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i dont know the plan well but if you have made it smaller, you would do well to put a good bit of wodding in the cab to trick the driver into seeing a larger vb.
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TONY.A.S.S.
Old Croc 
Joined: 21 February 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 6867 |
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Posted: 15 July 2013 at 8:10am |
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That looks a very neat job. One thing I would say about the bracing though, MDF had very little Integral Strength, so although acoustically you can get away with the material for the main build, Plywood bracing would be more solid.
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odc04r
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Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Sarfampton Status: Offline Points: 5469 |
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Posted: 15 July 2013 at 9:57am |
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For a first build especially, very tidy. Great job.
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Timebomb
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Joined: 11 October 2004 Location: Lancaster Status: Offline Points: 2763 |
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Posted: 15 July 2013 at 12:37pm |
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Looks good, i think the PD156 should work well in this cabinet.
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James Secker facebook.com/soundgearuk
James@soundgear.co.uk www.soundgear.co.uk |
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ash pegs
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Joined: 07 October 2009 Location: Great Bookham Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Posted: 15 July 2013 at 12:39pm |
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Thanks guys! I have taken my time to try and get everything right first time. The single most useful bit of kit I bought for this job has been my 1m metal ruler, you can't take too many measurements!
I'll put some wadding in then but I'll keep it away from the port though so it doesn't do any funny business. I'll bear that in mind for anything I make in the future Tony, thanks for the tip. Next jobs are filling the countersinks, then sanding and painting Cheers Ash |
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don't forget the cables
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Steve_B
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Joined: 29 September 2007 Status: Offline Points: 1592 |
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Posted: 15 July 2013 at 2:11pm |
Just a little nit picking; MDF obviously has some integral
strength or it would fall apart when you tried to move it. It is also a pretty
safe bet that some materials have greater strength than MDF and others have less
strength. Saying that a material has very little strength is meaningless
without quoting some figures. I might be moaned at for going on about this, but at some
point in the future someone who has read this thread will repeat the fact that
MDF has very little strength, then someone else will, and so on. Soon it
becomes accepted wisdom that MDF has very little strength. But what does very
little strength mean or imply? MDF might have less strength than plywood, but unless you
know what the actual strength of the material is, and what loads the material
is subject to the comparison between the two is irrelevant. The MDF’s strength
might be more than adequate. You also need to know how the load is acting on the body. 4mm
steel wire is probably stronger than a 25 cm broom handle, as long as the load
is in tension. The broom handles would make better legs for a table where the
load is under compression. At this point, to avoid seeming hypocritical, I should
sprinkle a few figures about. Unfortunately I haven’t got time. |
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TONY.A.S.S.
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Posted: 15 July 2013 at 3:40pm |
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Steve, I don't need sets of figures to know that if I hit a box made from 18mm MDF with a club hammer, a hole will appear sooner than if it was 18mm ply. I always look at braces to support panels, but they have to be rigid and an 18mm ply brace will be more rigid because of its makeup than MDF. In the context of this subject, what else do we need to know?
Edited by TONY.A.S.S. - 15 July 2013 at 4:47pm |
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mobiele eenheid
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Joined: 15 August 2004 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1563 |
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Posted: 15 July 2013 at 4:44pm |
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Well, the Young modulus would be a start. Around 4 for quality MDF, around 6 - 7 for Baltic Birch perpendicular to the grain and around 8 - 10 along side the grain (all GPa slash N/mm2). You could also look up the tension or compression modulus.
Btw higher number is better in this case.
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ash pegs
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Posted: 15 July 2013 at 8:47pm |
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OK I think it's obvious that ply would be better than MDF for use in bracing (trees have been growing tall and strong for a long time so they must know what they're doing right?) but I don't have any ply and I do have a load of MDF so for THIS particular project everything will be of the fibreboard ilk.
When it comes to proper cabinet bracing I don't think anyone has more knowledge than Tony (just look at any A.S.S. cab) and what he's saying certainly makes sense to me. Before I venture into another build I will be getting hold of a router and some plywood to go with my favourite long metal ruler. But I haven't finished this one yet, so I'm going downstairs to do some filling. |
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don't forget the cables
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TONY.A.S.S. wrote: