ceramic resistor query

It's worth noting that wirewound power resistors are some of the most indestructible components; being simply a coil of nichrome wire on a heatproof stick in a ceramic casing, they "work" (ie provide the right resistance) right up until the point the wire melts, so even if they're glowing red-hot they can still be functional. I've seen units where the ceramic casing has burnt/fallen away leaving just a charred coil and former, but it still has continuity, and measures about the right number of ohms. EG the soft-start resistors in power amps are usually 25 or 50 watt units, but have to withstand a surge of several hundred watts during the start-up process; this over-rating is not a problem, and they survive many cycles.

So, basically, 1 watt of difference between an original and replacement part is no difference at all.

Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA

I recently came across some passive crossovers where the ceramic resistor had survived but were glued to a plywood base which had charred badly. No wonder the customer could smell burning from the ports after a gig. LOL

it's all just cardboard and magnets really

This is what happened when the resistor in the soft start circuit of one of my C-Audios decided it had had enough;

The rest of it was rattling around inside!

studio45 wrote:

It's worth noting that wirewound power resistors are some of the most indestructible components; being simply a coil of nichrome wire on a heatproof stick in a ceramic casing, they "work" (ie provide the right resistance) right up until the point the wire melts, so even if they're glowing red-hot they can still be functional. I've seen units where the ceramic casing has burnt/fallen away leaving just a charred coil and former, but it still has continuity, and measures about the right number of ohms. EG the soft-start resistors in power amps are usually 25 or 50 watt units, but have to withstand a surge of several hundred watts during the start-up process; this over-rating is not a problem, and they survive many cycles.

So, basically, 1 watt of difference between an original and replacement part is no difference at all.

So in a passive crossover board replacing a 10w 10r with a 20w 10r would actually be better as theres less chance of it failing? And wouldnt alter the attenuation levels at all?

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Cheers for clearin that up mini

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Resistors are responsible for more faults in speaker crossovers than any other component. For the few pence that it costs, over-specify the resistors, and space them off the board.