Turbosound Crossover Repair

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   Just to help out others who get the HF failing on a Turbosound midtop. I think it was the 10" and 1" section of a TMS5, i assume this could be the same crossover as the TSE111 and other models with the same 10 + 1 horn module bit.

I repaired the HF Pot/Volume control/Attenuator, when i took it apart i could see the obvious burn marks, Where the attenuator was is circled black;

Heres the inside of the attenuator, Circled blue is the burnt/blackened area, which was still ok, as it was a white insulating material that was the burnt colour, not the wire.

Circled in red is the problem area, all that had happened is the coil had gotten so hot that the solder had melted (must have been around 200 degrees), disconnecting the wire from the terminal, I simply soldered it back on... DONE

This is just for referance as hopefully searchers can find this and if they find similar symptoms* they can attempt this repair even with no electronic knowledge and only basic soldering skills. The Pot/ attenuator doesnt have to be reomoved from the circuit board.

One more pic for good measure

* symptoms as in, HF works on its own but not when used though the crossover, and burn marks around the volume control on the crossover circuit board.

Feel free to correct me on details like the model numbers as im a tad unsure

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Jake_Fielder Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 08 October 2007 Status: Offline Points: 4236	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jake_Fielder Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Turbosound Crossover Repair Posted: 24 September 2009 at 1:11am
	Just to help out others who get the HF failing on a Turbosound midtop. I think it was the 10" and 1" section of a TMS5, i assume this could be the same crossover as the TSE111 and other models with the same 10 + 1 horn module bit. I repaired the HF Pot/Volume control/Attenuator, when i took it apart i could see the obvious burn marks, Where the attenuator was is circled black; Heres the inside of the attenuator, Circled blue is the burnt/blackened area, which was still ok, as it was a white insulating material that was the burnt colour, not the wire. Circled in red is the problem area, all that had happened is the coil had gotten so hot that the solder had melted (must have been around 200 degrees), disconnecting the wire from the terminal, I simply soldered it back on... DONE This is just for referance as hopefully searchers can find this and if they find similar symptoms* they can attempt this repair even with no electronic knowledge and only basic soldering skills. The Pot/ attenuator doesnt have to be reomoved from the circuit board. One more pic for good measure * symptoms as in, HF works on its own but not when used though the crossover, and burn marks around the volume control on the crossover circuit board. Feel free to correct me on details like the model numbers as im a tad unsure

Tedski Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 15 December 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 453	Post Options Post Reply Quote Tedski Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 September 2009 at 8:58am
	Very nice, but in my experience, after a coil has gotten so hot, it no longer has the same properties as it did before, changing the x-over point.

Jake_Fielder Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 08 October 2007 Status: Offline Points: 4236	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jake_Fielder Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 September 2009 at 9:15am
	Realy? It would have to have a changed capacitance or inductance...? Why do you think this happens?

Tedski Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 15 December 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 453	Post Options Post Reply Quote Tedski Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 September 2009 at 10:10am
	Not sure, but in the past I have had to replace passive x-overs after the 1" had blow. All the energy that was meant to go to the 1", goes to the coil, heating it up. After replacing the 1", it sounded wrong, and had to replace all the coils on the passive x-overs to get it right again. They had visibly deformed and gone darker.

hectorberman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 25 May 2017 Status: Offline Points: 87	Post Options Post Reply Quote hectorberman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 May 2023 at 9:23pm
	Sorry to revive such an old thread, but can anyone tell me which of the wires out of green and white is positive and negative respectively?

Wikl109 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Young Croc Joined: 29 April 2009 Location: Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 982	Post Options Post Reply Quote Wikl109 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 May 2023 at 8:25pm
	I've never used these particular cabs but looking at the bottom right corner of the first picture it seems to say: CABLE COLOUR Black Is Bass (-) Red Is Bass (+) Blue Is Mid (-) Brown Is Mid (+) That means white and green are the only two left. Again looking at the picture it must be: Green Is Top (-) White Is Top (+) The only problem here is the soldering on the crossover looks like it may have been tampered with as it's not very neat. It may well be how they came from the factory though. I'm pretty certain that is what the plate says though so I'd go with that.
	Cheers, Chris.

hectorberman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 25 May 2017 Status: Offline Points: 87	Post Options Post Reply Quote hectorberman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 May 2023 at 11:22am
	Here are the crossovers in question. I wanted to avoid creating a new thread so thought I'd ask this here too. While the components differ slightly, as these are from two slightly different models of the same cabinet, one is completely missing a coil? Can anyone shed any light on what's going on here? Has someone removed it or was it never there?

RoadRunnersDust Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Young Croc Joined: 03 December 2013 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 617	Post Options Post Reply Quote RoadRunnersDust Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 May 2023 at 12:08pm
	If you google for Turbosound tms crossover you’ll find a scan of a hand drawn note by T.A. That will give you a schematic and values for what the TMS crossovers should be :)
	www.guildfordcablecompany.co.uk