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Garrard sp25's disco driver 80 |
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funkyparrot
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Joined: 12 December 2010 Location: Leicestershire Status: Offline Points: 841 |
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Posted: 04 November 2014 at 9:54pm |
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Of course the SP 25 arms are stiff to move on full lift! You're trying to move them against the resistance of the platform that's lifting them!
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unsound
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Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: Kent Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: 04 November 2014 at 10:55pm |
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Nope, this is stiffer than that. I used SP25s to run mobile discos throughout the late 60s and early to mid 70s, I know them. On full lift, there was friction from the lifting platform. These feel like the arms are being pinched between an upthrust and a ceiling.
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funkyparrot
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Joined: 12 December 2010 Location: Leicestershire Status: Offline Points: 841 |
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Posted: 04 November 2014 at 11:18pm |
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Lift platform settings been buffered about? Weight fouling deck? Lack of lubrication at top of travel? Pivot bearing dry? Vertical (conical) bearing too tight?
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unsound
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Posted: 04 November 2014 at 11:24pm |
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I'd favour the first - if I could see how to change them! Yes, I expect everything is dry after umdy-um years.
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funkyparrot
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Joined: 12 December 2010 Location: Leicestershire Status: Offline Points: 841 |
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Posted: 04 November 2014 at 11:54pm |
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If I remember correctly, after around 30 plus years, hundreds of juke boxes and ????pints of beer....I think there might be a tiny Allen screw, adjusting the height of lift. That was my first thought, too. But there should have been gg rather than ff, in the suggestion.
Although I advocate no WD 40 on jukes, I'd suggest a tiny drop on the arm spindle & bearings, wiped off and a slight touch of Vaseline, applied. Should sort it. If not, PM me, we can go through it. John. Edited by funkyparrot - 04 November 2014 at 11:56pm |
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unsound
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Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: Kent Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: 07 November 2014 at 7:49pm |
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Progress? I have found the lift adjusting screws - accessed from the top. They are not allen screws but have slotted heads and the points of them are sprung. Clever stuff. They bear on a plastic platform and the plastic platform is raised by the lift lever.
But the arm still gets stiff with the screws taken right out. So it's not that. A puzzle is that there is a plastic white screw (even smaller) that goes in horizontally. It looks as if it might adjust the lift-off point or the parking point for the arm if ther was an auto-return. But there isn't an autoreturn. Perhaps a hangover from the SP25 that never got taken off but the screw has clearly been used because the head is slightly gulled. But it's clearly noting to do with this stiffness problem. Next step remove arm from gimbals. This reveals a larger screw that secures the gimbal assembly to a metal arm underneath - and a VERY thin rod that pokes up through the gimbal assembly. Damned if I know why. Now here's a funny thing. There's a bit of spring-loaded twist between the gimbal assembly and the metal plate. Remove bigger screw and put parts CAREFULLY in order so I can put them back again (I hope). There's another washer and a funny plate sort of kidneyshaped that looks as if it might be part of the autoreturn mechanism that isn't there. Lift off gimbal assembly - and lo! and behold there is the culprit, but I don't know what it does! Going up and down with the plate that the lift arm lifts is a rod or screw with a rubber dum on the top, and a tiny torsion spring round it. That's GOT to be the source of teh spring-loaded twist, but I'm damned if I can see what it does. And the friction comes because the rubber dum contacts the underside of the gimbal assembly, when the plate that the lift arm lifts lifts. Obviously a design feature. Nothing adjustable about it at all. Lubrication would last about 10 minutes, not a sensible thought. The only guess I can make is that it's designed to let you leave the arm securely positioned when you lift it, for cueing purposes. But since, like the SP25s, the arm comes down sideways when you lower the lift, that's useless as a function. Second thought - could it be something to do with damping when lowering the arm? I think I'll have a closer look at that.
Off at a random tangent - are the headshells the same as Mk IV or V SP25s? It'd be nice to carry a spare headshell with cartridge already mounted. |
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funkyparrot
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Joined: 12 December 2010 Location: Leicestershire Status: Offline Points: 841 |
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Posted: 07 November 2014 at 8:48pm |
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Fantastic! Someone who actually knows what he's doing! Having been an operator, some years ago, I give help on a juke box owner's site. Some of the returns you get are unbelieveable. Suggest things to check on the turntable.... Yes, but I've pressed buttons on the control board.......And the guy who's had all sorts of tracking problems on his vertical player, (One side only) after 3 months, and help from loads of people, finally discovers.....(Fanfare) It's the tension spring!!!!!
Great to know you've sorted it, on reflection, over the allen screws, was I thinking of my AP 76s.....or has my memory been taken over with servicing juke boxes? Having just re-read your post..."Could it be something to do with damping?"No matter how quickly you released those lifts, the arm would always give a steady descent.
Edited by funkyparrot - 07 November 2014 at 8:54pm |
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unsound
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Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: Kent Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: 07 November 2014 at 9:11pm |
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Still bu88ered to figure out the purpose of the rubber dum and what it's mounted on. That's the bit I thought might be something to do with the damping when the arm is lowered - danged new fangled ideas, the SP25Mk2 had no damping, you had to lower the lever slowly! No, hang on, that was a different deck, I wonder if it was the 2025 or a BSR deck - the SP25 had a quadrant marked "Stop" "Play" and "lift" IIRC.
The very thin thing is a spring. The gimbals are not rigid to the metal plate underneath that the big screw goes in to. Nope, there is spring loaded twist between the two. Anyway, it's all back together. And flattery will get you absolutely-----------------------------------------everywhere! Now for food and a small libation while I cogitate how lucky I am not to have killed myself by playing the thing without ripping it to bits first. Several of the mains wires underneath seem to have been accidentally hit with a soldering iron while the user was soldering something else, and there are a number of live and neutral wires with bare patches due to melted insulation - in close proximity to each other. On Sunday I might rewire it completely - fiddling with the underneath of record decks rather than underneath of girlfriend, much to her annoyance, no doubt. Other watchers, a commercially built twin deck also with Disco Driver 80s in just sold on ebay for £58 (I dropped out at £57) and it was fully working with a 100 watt amp in - collect only from Brighton. |
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unsound
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Posted: 09 November 2014 at 12:00pm |
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Grumph. Switch-on-thump eliminated by the spark quenchers after bypassing the neutral side of the DPDT switches. BUT on the one deck that I currently have a 9TAHC in, I seem to have only left hand channel out. But if I turn the tracking weight up a bit it sounds surprisingly solid - and apparently the mixer I'm using is not RIAA compensated AND is high impedance on the "phono in".
Step 1 - switch the channel inputs round. If I then have right channel only, it's not a mixer fault. Step 2 - use a different input lead. Step 3 SHOULD logically to be to switch the wires in the DIN sockets that are the out of the deck. but that's a pfaff. Step 4 - put the cartridge carrier in the other deck - if it's still left channel only it's either a high resistance on one of the sliding contacts - or the 9TAHC (more probable than the stylus). Grrr, since although I know a man who has some he wants £25 each used and £50 each NOS. Daft since a modern magnetic cartridge is less - but then I'd have to put RIAA preamps in the deck, and those cost money.
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