need opinions on new horn design |
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_djk_
Old Croc Joined: 23 November 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6002 |
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djk
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Sencesync
Registered User Joined: 17 April 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 180 |
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ok thats diffrent, how the hell do i work this thing? well here leme rephrase that. im in the states so most of these things its asking for, ive rarly ever seen. only thing i reconize on there is BL. i might as well make a prototype box out of MDF and do a temp seal with a 18NW100, i have 2 nearly full sheets, i should be able to make one box. and no i wont be building the true ones out of MDF. was thinking of using either 7ply void free maple (3/4") or 5ply void free maple/birch (3/4") whitch one should i use? Edited by Sencesync |
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JJones
Registered User Joined: 29 March 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 20 |
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What you need are T/S numbers for the driver you are using. That's all the data in the lower sections. If your not sure about what they are, you should go to the FAQ section on this sight. There is a pretty good explenation of them. The next thing you'll need is to take the measures off your drawing. If you check the "hornresp" help, it gives a pretty good explenation of each of the horn areas. Play with it a little bit and it'll start making sense. If you run into anything that doesn't make sense, hit me here or e-mail me directly. Jim |
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What?????
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JJones
Registered User Joined: 29 March 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 20 |
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To answer the wood question,,, Check the edges! I'm working with 7ply maple and one sheet was pretty bad on one edge. It's convinced me to fiberglass the edges to ensure that it won't de-laminate. IMO, I think the 7ply is the right answer. The "right" wood is much tooooo expensive here in the states. 13ply would keep my project on hold for a very long time. I ran the numbers (as best I can make out, You'll be able to tweak them from here) on "hornresp" at lunch. Give me a shout and I'll send the plots to you. Jim Edited by JJones |
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What?????
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Sencesync
Registered User Joined: 17 April 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 180 |
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im giving a shout, the woofer im using for this horn is the B&C
18NW100. you can find most if not all its TS stuff at
http://www.usspeaker.com/homepage.htm under 18" woofers. im looking to
get somewhere from 40-50 hz at high DB. and if you can, try to make the
folds smooth like i have, but at the same time as basic as possible. i
dont really have all the tools neccessary, like dadowing, i cant do
that, its all glue and screws. and id like to keep the same basic
outside shape of the box if possible
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JJones
Registered User Joined: 29 March 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 20 |
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OK,,, Can anyone tell me how to do a screen print on the thread? Sencesync, What you have doesn't look that bad. I would guess you can get what you want out of it by "tweeking" the front and rear chambers and adjusting the mouth size and horn length. When it's all said and done, it's a matter of what you're willing to compromise on. Also remember that I'm working from your drawing with some "assumptions" on chamber size and horn length. You may have a different view. It's your drawing. And don't forget, I'm a Newbie too! Jim |
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What?????
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Sencesync
Registered User Joined: 17 April 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 180 |
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if you need, i can personaly send you the pics. it has all the measures
there. its just the measurements for the pieces and the horn areas are
on that somewhat fuzzy pic. those are all the measurements, you just
have to match up letters is all. so if youd like i can send them to you?
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tendril
Registered User Joined: 22 July 2004 Status: Offline Points: 334 |
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How much are you being quoted for 13lam 18mm birch in the states? I am paying 45quid ($85ish) which I know is not the best price (still, not the worst either) |
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Tendril
A mistake is a mistake only if one learns nothing from it. |
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Sencesync
Registered User Joined: 17 April 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 180 |
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hah, quoted for? i cant even find a place to buy it from here. i live
in Western Washington, and and its strange to know that you cant find a
place that sells it. the best i can find is 7ply void free maple
Edited by Sencesync |
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LunchieTey
Young Croc Joined: 06 February 2005 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 934 |
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I couldn't find anything in West Australia either until I looked under
timber wholesalers in the phonebook and rang a few,the timber retailers
sell crap wood full of voids. I even found a salvage yard with 18mm 11
ply with veneer for $60au a sheet. Quite a few of the wholesalers are
quite happy to sell it direct to public in single sheet quantities
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Speaker addict
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_djk_
Old Croc Joined: 23 November 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6002 |
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"i live in Western Washington" The word is 'appleply', its made in Washington and I get 1" 20 ply (18 cores of poplar and alder plus 2 veneer faces of maple) 4X8 sheets for about $80. http://www.statesind.com/prod/ind_2a2.html 3/4" Baltic Birch runs about $55 but is only 5X5 |
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djk
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Sencesync
Registered User Joined: 17 April 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 180 |
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id rather use void free 7ply maple. that is ment for furniture
and is soft wood. not only that all my designs and builds are bassed
off of a 3/4" wood, not 1". i do see that they are 18ply, but im really
not wanting the extra veneer. the boxes are carpeted and painted so
theres no point.
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