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"ODEP" crown macrotech |
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kedwardsleisure
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Joined: 20 January 2009 Location: Staffordshire Status: Offline Points: 5157 |
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Posted: 19 September 2022 at 7:52pm |
Thats too high, must be under 10mV and in reality is usually less than 5. |
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Kevin
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Bigbassguy
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Joined: 22 August 2022 Location: Caribbean Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: 19 September 2022 at 8:04pm |
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Strange enough it dropped to under 10 when warmed up.
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Bigbassguy
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Posted: 19 September 2022 at 8:21pm |
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What's the cause and should it be under 10 at start-up?
How can it be adjusted?
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kedwardsleisure
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Joined: 20 January 2009 Location: Staffordshire Status: Offline Points: 5157 |
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Posted: 19 September 2022 at 8:34pm |
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it should always be under 10, it's servo controlled, not adjustable. So, there's a fault somewhere. If the ODEP voltages cannot be adjusted (the adjustment is quite sensitive and should only need a touch on the pot, if the pot is hard-over then there's definitely a fault), then a faulty odep circuit itself can cause an offset, because the circuit controls the ultimate output stage drive current.
Make sure the output modules are 100% ok before digging into the control & power boards.Even the little board on the back of the output terminals (MA5000VZ) forms part of the feedback loop as the output is sensed right there. |
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Kevin
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Bigbassguy
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Posted: 19 September 2022 at 9:21pm |
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I've adjusted odep to spec and the protect issue stopped.
The bridge mode not also work but channel A seems to have 12v under ratings. I've tested some FETS removed and the C8187-4 reads well one time and at another time it reads invalid. Discharged them and reads well on and off so I'm guessing the others are playing games also.
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Coded
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Joined: 03 March 2010 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Posted: 04 September 2025 at 1:34pm |
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I have a 3600vz with an IOC light on (R.CH) with no signal. Both ODEP lights are on. I just replaced all the transistors on both sides. Also some resistors on the output board. One channel was down ,so I did them both. Amp is in stereo mode. Does anyone have the IOC circuit schematic.?
Edited by Coded - 04 September 2025 at 6:18pm |
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kedwardsleisure
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Joined: 20 January 2009 Location: Staffordshire Status: Offline Points: 5157 |
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Posted: 05 September 2025 at 3:29pm |
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there isn't an IOC circuit schematic as such, it's all incorporated across multiple boards.
The final IOC led drive circuit is on the front pcb behind the front panel, then it's driven off the main control board analogue integrator which is sensing error conditions via the ES signal (overall amp error signal ie clip detection) and the high side error flag which is itself driven from one half of the output section. In short, anything that prevents the amp from reaching equilibrium will light the IOC light...which is, as the name suggests, an input-output comparator. readme |
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Kevin
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Coded
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Joined: 03 March 2010 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Posted: 04 October 2025 at 2:26am |
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Hi kedwardsleisure. It's an old main board. I can't get the schematic for it. I sorted the problem. But I can't get a bias on the right channel. I get a bias of 290mv max ,fully anticlockwise and 0mv clockwise. It's somehow reversed but not the full amount that you should get anyway. I tested it sound wise low volume and that's all ok. Cheers
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kedwardsleisure
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Joined: 20 January 2009 Location: Staffordshire Status: Offline Points: 5157 |
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Posted: 04 October 2025 at 11:56am |
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its still got a fault then, either the odep is still throttling the drive or one of the amp stages is not conducting. Dont forget each channel has 4 parts to it, high side positive, high side negative, low side positive and low side negative.
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Kevin
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Coded
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Joined: 03 March 2010 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Posted: 04 October 2025 at 2:12pm |
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OK. Any test I can do to find out where the fault is.? I replaced Q215 and Q216 to get the IOC light off. Q216 cleared the light ,Q215 gave me a bias that can be adjusted. It was still before that. Couldn't change it. I did a lot of work on the amp. Right channel was gone ,so I did both. Both sides have new Transistors MJ21193 ,94. New Drivers. There was damp also ,wet. I painted both sides .engine paint. All new Insulators. The whole works man. It's one of the best amps I think I've ever heard. Very separated sound. Low volume. I just need to sort that Bias out. The high side creeps up to 310mv from 260s. From turn on aswell.
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kedwardsleisure
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Joined: 20 January 2009 Location: Staffordshire Status: Offline Points: 5157 |
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Posted: 05 October 2025 at 7:02pm |
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maybe a heatsink tracking issue. The bias should stay fairly steady, with the bias voltage automatically reducing as the transistors warm up to keep the bias current steady. There are a string of small diodes on the output transistor heatsink that are in thermal contact with it, check those are ok. On some variants they are sealed under silicone and on others just buried in heatsink compound. If any are leaky the bias will be too low as it uses the forward voltage drop as a reference for the bias voltage.
Also check the associated fusible resistors and zero-ohm links. Both resistors and diodes can suffer if the thing's been damp. If this is not addressed then the amp channel may go into thermal runaway when in heavy use and blow the output transistors again...this may have been the original cause of the fault! |
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Kevin
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EmPro
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Joined: 26 June 2020 Status: Offline Points: 992 |
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Posted: 05 October 2025 at 7:19pm |
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Speaking of MT's....here's a Crown PowerBase 2 from 1980's as mentioned on the back....basically playing on 8R full range speakers went straight up in flames on ch left...i highly doubt the outputs are original in this amp lol,however both ch have same outputs and looks old as hell...
Edited by EmPro - 05 October 2025 at 7:28pm |
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EmPro Audio
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