Heat Sink Panels anyone?
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Category: Plans
Forum Name: Punisher and X-tro
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about the Punisher and X-tro
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=24719
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 6:55pm
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Topic: Heat Sink Panels anyone?
Posted By: tomschute
Subject: Heat Sink Panels anyone?
Date Posted: 07 March 2009 at 6:38pm
Just thought I'd drop a message to say having fitted 6mm access panels on my last punisher build and getting a few quiries from discruntled blown ciare owners I am happy to offer a retro fitting service to fit recessed, 6mm 6082 aluminium hatches to punisher cabs. I will be monitoring the response from the freshly built cabs to see how they fair. You can drop your cabs off and i'll recess fit the hatches. Chuck us an email if I can help. Tom ------------- Out to lunch... stableaudio@hotmail.co.uk www.stableaudio.co.uk Speaker Building Services |
Replies:
Posted By: VPAS
Date Posted: 07 March 2009 at 7:56pm
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good idea depending on the stacking arrangement i supose...
need to some how have the heat sink in the horn mouth to ensure contact with the air really. i think these cabs would benefit alot from less thermal/power compression how much are these tom? ------------- n^2 modulo -P = number wang |
Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 07 March 2009 at 8:52pm
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Nice. Though they must cost a pretty penny. |
Posted By: tomschute
Date Posted: 07 March 2009 at 8:58pm
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they're not too bad - not as bad as you'd think. I'll cost em up and stick it up.
------------- Out to lunch... stableaudio@hotmail.co.uk www.stableaudio.co.uk Speaker Building Services |
Posted By: Timebomb
Date Posted: 08 March 2009 at 2:30am
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Did some very similar on our punishers, ill post up some pics tomorrow,
only used them once so far and the panels didnt even get warm, totally
cold to the touch, only running on a QSC 4050HD for now though, i put a
smaller ali plate on the panel directly behind the driver, plan is to
have it in contact with the backplate of the driver for good thermal
transfer, and then mount a computer cpu heatsink and fan to the panel,
fan shall be driven from the amp signal via a circuit my mates designd,
active heatsinking should be much more effective than passive.
Havent quite worked out how to bolt it all together and keep it
airtight yet Side panels should do something though, id be interrested to see if you get them warm, ive felt the mdf panels on my hds get warm after a night of spanking, there very close to the driver though. ------------- James Secker facebook.com/soundgearuk James@soundgear.co.uk www.soundgear.co.uk |
Posted By: tomschute
Date Posted: 08 March 2009 at 11:01am
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I hvae thought about fans but think it was over compicated - a cab really shouldn't be designed that it requires such compications to cool! Perhaps having the panel beneath the driver in the mouth raised from the surface - you could even have 3 or 4 fins spaced apart to really increase surface area. So long as you have good theramal conductivety all you'd need is a few bolts running through coupled somehow to the driver. Sprung loaded plate ar the like. I'm gonna play with this some more... ------------- Out to lunch... stableaudio@hotmail.co.uk www.stableaudio.co.uk Speaker Building Services |
Posted By: eltron
Date Posted: 08 March 2009 at 1:36pm
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Just a quick thought: As Vpas also stated, it would be better for the heatsink to be in the throat, "to ensure contact with the air really". I think it would also be beneficial, because the magnet of the driver is facing straight down, towards the panel(s) that form the So instead of having the alu access panels you would have a alu plate in the throat CV stylee. Would even be possible to retrofit if ti wasnt for the mouth bracing... edit: unclear wording |
Posted By: Timebomb
Date Posted: 08 March 2009 at 3:53pm
    The 3rd picture shows the smaller ali plate in the panel directly behind the driver, sorry about the shadows,. I think thats the optimum place to put a heat sink panel as its so close to the driver, cant be done as a retrofit though as the brace is in the way as eltron said. Some info on designing heatsinks here: http://www.molalla.net/%7Eleeper/heat.htm - http://www.molalla.net/~leeper/heat.htm Ive not been through all the maths my mates better at that sort of stuff than i am, the jist of it was that active is much more effective than passive for the size. We tested a cpu heatsink and fan bolted to a smoke machine heat block and it dissapated about 300W of heat, wich would be very usefull to the ciare over long term use i think. A passive heatsink would be more reliable yeah i aggree tom, but i couldent see a straightfoward way of fitting a big enough heatsink to the cab and haveing it in contact with the driver and pole peice. CPU heatsinks are very efficiant for there size and there cheep and easy to get compaird to custom heatsinks. We got some silver epoxy glue, its a stong glue with good thermal transfer, i think were gonna stick all the bits together with a ring plate round the pole peice vent then put a big gasket on it and bolt it all down. ------------- James Secker facebook.com/soundgearuk James@soundgear.co.uk www.soundgear.co.uk |
Posted By: Sibulus
Date Posted: 10 March 2009 at 3:32pm
| How much for six fitted? |
Posted By: pfly
Date Posted: 10 March 2009 at 7:25pm
| What about using those heat tranfer pipe thingies nerds use with computers? Aluminium block attached to the driver and pipes leading to a heat sink somewhere in the horn mouth or access panel |
Posted By: tomschute
Date Posted: 10 March 2009 at 7:33pm
are we going in the right direction here, lol ------------- Out to lunch... stableaudio@hotmail.co.uk www.stableaudio.co.uk Speaker Building Services |
tomschute wrote:Posted By: Deadbeat
Date Posted: 10 March 2009 at 7:48pm
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Well, it could work I guess. Heat pipes work like this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Heat_Pipe_Mechanism.png - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Heat_Pipe_Mechanism.png As you can see, it's a closed system and fro the outside looks like a piece of copper pipe. It could be the question of whacking these down the pole piece as close to the VC as possible, then having the cold end in a...cold place, like an ally panel in the horn or out. ------------- Away on extended leave. |
Posted By: karpet
Date Posted: 27 March 2009 at 4:00pm
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don't think there's much point to the panel replacements when cabs usually stacked next to each other, so you're only sharing heat between them timebomb: have been wanting someone to try replacing that panel in the mouth for aaages... does it actually get warm though? my 2p about active cooling.. far more effort than it's worth.. replacing that in-mouth panel is best one to do as it's behind the driver on 1 side, and always getting fresh air however you stack.. you already have the air-movement created inside the rear chamber by the driver's own venting + movement.. and again in the mouth... the best thing to do would be to bolt extruded heatsink alu ( http://www.mmmetals.com/pages/extrusion_profiles/aluminum_extrusion_profiles.htm - http://www.mmmetals.com/pages/extrusion_profiles/aluminum_extrusion_profiles.htm ) on either side of the panel timebomb replaced, with the fins running front to back of the cabinet can anyone comment on the effect of the increase in the rear-chamber volume, or it so minimal as not to matter? |
Posted By: soundsystemdan
Date Posted: 27 March 2009 at 5:30pm
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is it worth trying to not cool them down TOO much?, as t.s. paramters are normally measured after a warming up period. .. just a thought, I don't know if it's worth worrying about though. ------------- http://dancomsound.com" rel="nofollow - http://dancomsound.com |
Posted By: Deej
Date Posted: 11 April 2009 at 9:03pm
are the bolts holding the panel screwed directly into the wood or is there some sort of T-nut type setup? |