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re drilling 1850 baffle, help..

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jimbo.. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo.. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2009 at 4:27pm
I think there are only two different sizes of clamp. Small one's which will hold up to 12" and the bigger ones for everything above.
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jimbo.. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo.. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2009 at 4:28pm
Although some say that its not advisable to hold 18's with just clamps...
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AJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2009 at 4:56pm
Originally posted by jimbo.. jimbo.. wrote:

Although some say that its not advisable to hold 18's with just clamps...



hummzzz  thats what i thought, check ur sj messages please mate Smile
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shagnasty View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagnasty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2009 at 5:01pm
In particular THAT 18"....... I haven't used the drivers but have you put them on top of each other? if even 2 holes lined up I would be tempted to bolt through those to stop slipping and then use 4 clamps as well for the space inbetween..... that is a hell of a lot of driver to have held with just clamps, if nothing lines up spinning a bit of 12mm ply as an end stop for the rear of the cab so the driver butts up against that would at least stop sliding on 3 of the 4 axis.....
 
Tricky job, I think I would weld a cut off drill bit into a a 1/4" socket and stuff it in an air rachet to re-drill the baffle............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote levyte357 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2009 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by jimbo.. jimbo.. wrote:

Although some say that its not advisable to hold 18's with just clamps...


Best Tell Tony Rossells what he's been doing wrong all these years then... LOL









"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".
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shagnasty View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagnasty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2009 at 5:27pm
In fairness the pics shown are front loaded so the cut-out (which I bet it pretty bloody acurrate) stops any "slippage" concerns..... But I get your point.....
 
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AJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2009 at 10:47am
dint think this wanna guna be as tricky as this... pulling the top off the cab is not really an option tbh, may i could use a combination of screws and clamps??  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ceharden Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2009 at 11:32am
I only meant use clamps where you can't get in to accurately drill holes to bolt through.  For a heavy driver like that, I would use more than four clamps if I had to do it with them alone.
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AJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2009 at 12:42pm
ahhh i see now, Il take your advise and use both screws and clamps..  thanks for every1s input Smile
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East End Radio View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote East End Radio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 September 2009 at 1:00am
I am new here and have only just read this post. I know this is an old post, and you have probably sorted this by now, but this info might be useful to others. I had the same problem on some horns a few years back, the answer was key hole surgery. First I made up a cardboard template of the new hole layout. Next get hold of a peice of round wooden broom handle to use as  plugs, so you know what size hole to drill, this is about 25mm, or more. Look through the driver access hole put your template where your new driver is going to go as a guide. You then drill a hole though the top of the cab, use a hole saw, just under the the size of the broom handle, right over the position of your new fixing holes. I done this by eye and it wooked out O/K, but you can measure from the inside of the cab and then mark the outside up before drilling. Once you have access from the top of the cabinet, you can easilly drill your new fixing holes from the top. I had a big chuck on my drill and it would not go though the the 25mm holes I drilled, so I used a long (SHARP) masonary drill to reach the baffle. Once I had made the new holes, I pressed in the new "T" nuts using a mole grip though the speaker cut out, a bit fiddly for the ones nearest the front, (2 of), but the rest were easy. FIT YOUR NEW DRIVER NOW, before you plug the holes, you can fit all the bolts and tighten them easily. Now cover your new driver with a towel and use short pieces of your broom handle to plug the 25mm holes you drilled. Shave them down for a tight fit and use wood glue and tap them in nearly flush with the top of the cab, sand down flush, fill and repaint, job done.  
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