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Simon's 3 way horn loaded mid top

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cracker.a View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cracker.a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 November 2010 at 3:53pm
Originally posted by soundguymatt soundguymatt wrote:

Anyone care to spec drivers and do some plots for this design - looks like you could be onto something. 

Building plans has been released for this community in the hope that will start collaboration between forum members.
I wish my time and resources would not have limits to revisit and entertain continuously this and other designs.
As per the request the 10" /8"/1" version will be build for the school students.


Originally posted by imageoven<span id=userPro457819 =showDropDown'userPro457819', 'proMenu457819', 160, 0; =msgSidePro title=View Drop Down></span> imageoven wrote:


Do you plan to make the horns from fibreglass or wood?
You show a phase bung in the plans, how far along is it's design?

This is wood horn. Long ago when I made fiberglass horns, I use to reverse a dust cap on the driver, then pour a gypsum plaster, let it cure and use it to make a negative mold form to specifically custom make center phase plug for that driver.
Plan above is for a general horn to cover mid range, can be built from wood and to benefit most DIY members here instead of posting a building plan for fiberglass mold plan for very specific driver. 

Originally posted by Ibex Ibex wrote:


Looks a little bit like a mini KF-850...

Horn calculations have not changed formulas remain the same. Because of given constants most horns meant for general parameter drivers will end up to be much less similar.
Since horns been used in sound reinforcement it's getting hard to have fresh ideas, most designs are  exhausted and we have a feeling some have been repeated.
That's the case on my first post when other member pointed out. it looks like a mini version of the EAW KF 850 !
Remember a complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system that works.

Originally posted by amss amss wrote:


What are the recommended drivers? Any plots?

To get the most efficiency and smooth frequency response customized horn need to be designed to each individual specific driver.
Sourcing and selecting a driver can take longer than a design process.
With 10" and 12" we can get to about 2 kHz before it gets too tricky... Tony Andrews from Funktion One gets 6,5 kHz from a horn-loaded 8", but he use custom drivers and their R&D is way better than any of us, DIY-s, can dream about...

Originally posted by Centauri Centauri wrote:


What I had in mind for the HF would not change box dimensions

Thank you for your interest and I appreciate for your time to make up a sketch. I agree that will improve a bit the sounding to relocate the HF horn.
Considering that this cabinet is for long range listening.
It's debatable how much will improve?
Unfortunately whenever two wavelengths with different pressures are combined, there will be a discontinuity at the juncture of the two.
This discontinuity will be audible as though it were a separate, non-coherent source ( like delayed loudspeaker).
In my opinion shifting or incorporating in the mid horn a HF horn is rather done for space saving reason. (Note this theory is not the case in pin-pointed Line Array system)

In respect to the fact that is doable to relocate HF horn where your sketch is showing, make a cut out on two wooden horns into cabinet cross support plate.
I wouldn't mind to hear others opinion how beneficial and practical this would be.

My understanding of your first response was to change the cabinet height to fit HF horn between the mid horns and port the rear chamber either side of the HF flare for a little more low end extension. On picture you missing the ports, right?




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Centauri Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 November 2010 at 10:28pm
Yes, I didn't include any ports on the drawing, but these could still be brought out either side of the HF flare if required, and the enclosed volume between the hi mid and lo mid flares could also be included in rear volume.

I usually like to get adjacent band components as physically close to each other as possible no matter what the intended listening distance, although at greater distances the listening position would tend to be more on vertical axis.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cracker.a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2010 at 12:31am
As per posted plan, custom built passive crossover.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p1go Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2010 at 10:22am
Very nice project Smile
Can you upload the plan in higher resolution?


Edited by p1go - 13 November 2010 at 10:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MarjanM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2010 at 10:46am
Inductances has to be rotated 90 degrees in relation to each other to avoid interferences.
Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Teunos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2010 at 11:05am
Originally posted by MarjanM MarjanM wrote:

Inductances has to be rotated 90 degrees in relation to each other to avoid interferences.
+1, interference can cause frequency leaking and possibly make low end coming through your tweeter therefore possibly braking it.
Better to turn one of them to a laying down position, and twist one them by 90 degrees. And while you're at it, make sure the location of the filter in the cab will be as far as possible removed from any metal since this can change the induction of the coil.
 
BTW, what kind of capacitors did you use? the purple one look like some bi-polar capacitors.


Edited by Teunos - 13 November 2010 at 11:06am
Best regards,
Teun.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote daywalk3r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2010 at 4:31pm
Originally posted by Teunos Teunos wrote:

the purple one look like some bi-polar capacitors.
As far as I can tell from the looks, it seems all are classic electrolytic bi-polars, except the yellow one on the left Ermm

Metallized polypropylene film (MKP) capacitors are best suited for audio use, though they are alot more expensive than those pesky bi-polars Geek.

You could get away with using a bipol on the LF, but I would not recommend doing that on the MF/HF if your aim is max sound quality.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Teunos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2010 at 8:08pm
Originally posted by daywalk3r daywalk3r wrote:

Originally posted by Teunos Teunos wrote:

the purple one look like some bi-polar capacitors.
As far as I can tell from the looks, it seems all are classic electrolytic bi-polars, except the yellow one on the left Ermm

Metallized polypropylene film (MKP) capacitors are best suited for audio use, though they are alot more expensive than those pesky bi-polars Geek.

You could get away with using a bipol on the LF, but I would not recommend doing that on the MF/HF if your aim is max sound quality.
Yeah that's why i asked, i also am not very keen on using bipolar capacitors, and prefer MKP but if budget restricts you, you can always go for MKT. As far as i know, especially for PA, there won't be a noticeable difference between MKT and MKP, except for general lower max voltage rating at which point the capacitor brakes down on the MKT.
Best regards,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cracker.a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2010 at 2:03am
Originally posted by MarjanM MarjanM wrote:

Inductances has to be rotated 90 degrees in relation to each other to avoid interferences.


In my experience, the magnetic field generated by every inductor will induce a voltage in every other inductor regardless to they position on a similar plane on the x-over board. This adds more non linear distortion, and if the crossover can vibrate, which it must inside the speaker cabinet, yet more non-linear distortion is added. Hence no loudspeaker with any pretence at quality should ever house a passive crossover inside the bass chamber of a loudspeaker.

The magnetic field generated can saturate a ferrite core, causing a loud 'crack' sound on really heavy peaks, and a fizz on smaller peaks.

Air cored inductors do not suffer from this, but they need many more turns of wire to achieve the same value, which increases the DC resistance, and makes the heating problem.


In past 20 years I've been using booth vertical and horizontal installation method on crossover boards and haven't experienced any difference or failures neither on board or driver elements.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cracker.a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2010 at 8:39pm

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Teunos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 November 2010 at 10:30am
Originally posted by cracker.a cracker.a wrote:



Looks good.
Have you decided yet where you'll be placing the high-horn and if you will be porting the rear chamber?
Best regards,
Teun.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cracker.a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2010 at 6:04pm
Please find final plan and a link to PDF drawing below.
Originally posted by Teunos Teunos wrote:


Have you decided yet where you'll be placing the high-horn and if you will be porting the rear chamber?

Yes. I have re-visited the design and decided to increase the enclosure height from 678mm to 730mm.
Horn flare specification have changed along with more customized and detailed horn throat to get most out of the inexpensive Eminence drivers.
( Please note, this design have a very limited budget due a fact that is ordered by local school students.)

Originally posted by cravings cravings wrote:


what bass would you use up to 180?

I prefer to have booth bass sub and kick section too.
Imagine having only sub bins and providing sound reinforcement service to live rock concert ... or paying dub-step night at club and only having bass bins that play's from 80 to 180 ?

Earlier I have started a thread on similar question read more here:
http://forum.speakerplans.com/what-defines-good-bass-in-sound-reinforcement_topic43823_page1.html

Originally posted by Tuenos Tuenos wrote:


what kind of capacitors did you use? the purple one look like some bi-polar capacitors.

I used metallized polyester and electrolytic capacitors booth is non polarized, non inductive.
I suggest when possible to use a first one for superior sound.
Originally posted by p1go p1go wrote:


Very nice project Smile
Can you upload the plan in higher resolution?

I need to look into what do I do wrong or is there size limit on share server I use for upload. 
Link to PDF click on file then choose download original:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0BxJfZjQRqzlqZGExYjI1ZmMtODQ4ZS00ODJmLWJkODAtZDg2MDAwZGRkNjIy&hl=en&authkey=CL2LsJoL




Edited by cracker.a - 23 November 2010 at 3:58am
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