Small,Light Sub? |
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rbarone
Registered User Joined: 12 March 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Thanks David - I had to read your reply 4x to understand it... but I get it now. I'll go with the 40Hz box.
I can't thank you enough for illuminating the differences each design presented, & putting in all the time to plot it out. I hope the good karma comes back to you ten fold. Cheers - Rob
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DMorison
Old Croc Joined: 14 March 2007 Location: Aberdeen Status: Offline Points: 1649 |
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Yeah, sorry about that. I'd never want to talk down to anyone, and am too lazy to really explain things thoroughly at an entry level anyway, so sometimes I don't quite manage to pitch things right, or ramble on a bit. If you do want any more clarification, feel free to shout.
Well, everyone loves a bit of armchair quarterbacking, and I'm enough of a nerd to enjoy this stuff, plus having to explain it to others can help refine one's own understanding as well, so it's not like I don't get anything out of it myself. All the best, David.
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rbarone
Registered User Joined: 12 March 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Many Thanks to all who took the time to add something to my sub project - especially DMorison & mini-mad, whose expertise made all the difference.
Just to follow up, I haven't had the time to test out the subs, but the cabinets are built. I'll post it all here for anyone interested - First, my goal was to build something for a small group / small venue situation.. something as light as possible, small & pack-able.. a sub that the 110# female singer would have no trouble handling on her own. I chose to build around the Kappalite 3015LF 4, using 1/2" ply. The finished cabinet weighs in @ 22#/10kg. I guess that'll be about 33# all said & done. Since it was sort of a proof of concept build, I used what I had around the shop... 1/2" cabinet grade maple ply. Lastly, if anyone is interested in trying this for themselves, I can send you a sketchup file with all the individual parts & a cut sheet. Forgive me if some descriptions appear obvious... I'm including for any novice builder to follow. I pre-cut all the parts... with a table saw it's a matter minutes, but there are lots of straight lines & shared dimensions, so a hand held saw with a clamped straight edge would be pretty fast too. Locate the ports on the back. They're 4" x 10" total, so I cut 9.5" sections of pvc & glued them in place with PL. Once dry, I used a hole saw to remove most of the material, then routed flush with bottom bearing bit using pipe as guide. I then fastened the back to the bottom. All joints get a line of PL, which is very strong & expands as it cures. I'll pin the joints with an 18g nailer - for some that's plenty. others get a few screws. Since this is 1/2" ply, all screw holes are pre-drilled for #6 screws & countersunk. The bottom brace has to be trimmed to allow the ports to pass by. Just trace & trim with a jig saw. The brace is locate about halfway & kept uniform with a pair of scrap wood spacers. A small clamp across the width keeps the pieces aligned while I fasten with brads. I go through similar steps to attach the brace across the middle of the back So far - the bottom, back & a pair of braces. I add the sides - use just enough adhesive to squeeze out when the joint is pulled tight. too little starves the joint, too much is not any better... & it's messy. I piece together the bracing. It's clamped & plenty strong using PL, but I would do it differently next time - I would cut the vertical frame out as one piece & move to 3/4" material for the horizontal C-shaped brace, & use pocket holes to join the arms to the back. The two frames are joined together with half laps - this would remain the same. The arms of the brace are angled back to clear the speaker. Again, marking all the center lines makes assembly easy. Add the baffle & the top, same fashion - I mark out, cut, drill route etc for the speakons, top hat etc. I located the top hat toward the back to avoid the brace, but set the front pair of mounting screws over the center of that brace. The baffle is set back 1" from the front - it's trimmed out with some 1" strips of 1/2" ply to thicken the edge. The trim is glued in with PL for added support of the baffle. I use a 1/4" rounder over bit on all the edges, including the port exits & use some Duratex to finish. The subs were built to pair with these tops - Once again, thanks to the folks here who made this build happen. I wish I had some sort of performance news for you, but that will have to wait for now. - Rob |
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DMorison
Old Croc Joined: 14 March 2007 Location: Aberdeen Status: Offline Points: 1649 |
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Nice looking woodwork - even if you didn't know all the theory when you started this, you've certainly got the construction side sorted!
I wouldn't normally have imagined 1/2" would be rigid enough for a sub, but I think with the small size of all the panels plus your bracing you'll probably get by ok. Are you relying on the small overall size to make them easy to pick up without handles? Hope they sound as good as they look . Cheers, David.
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rbarone
Registered User Joined: 12 March 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Thanks David - Without reservation, I'll say that you did all the heavy lifting.
I did put a surface mount handle on the back, & it feels pretty balanced. If needed, I think I will add a pair on the sides... I just didn't have any more laying around. I am curious to hear how they perform. If it's anywhere close to projections, they will be more than enough. If it's an absolute debacle, I will try my hand at a little Cubo. Either way, I learned a lot... The woodwork is quick & easy because I have a fairly complete shop - I design & build custom furniture for a living. Thanks again - Rob
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all bass
Old Croc Joined: 11 October 2012 Location: the Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1855 |
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Looking good.
Now make some full grills for your SLA's to give it all a nice robust and uniform look. |
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mini-mad
Old Croc Joined: 13 July 2012 Location: london Status: Offline Points: 6903 |
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...just looking at the bass boxes, i would reinforce with a good thick chunk of wood where the tophats go in to the box from the inside. if its 1/2ich wood and you have recessed the tophats into it there isnt gonna be much for the screws to grip to and once those big tall mid-tops go up and the smallest of swaying will see the tophats ripped out and it come crashing down and hurt some one... or worse.. BREAK YOUR SPEAKERS!!!!
non-the-less, great build!! i would invest in side handles too as a single handle on the back isnt good on YOUR back, if you know what i mean. |
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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.
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rbarone
Registered User Joined: 12 March 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Thanks...
MM-yeah, I was thinking the top hats may be a little weak. I located 2 of the holes over the middle brace & ran in some long screws, but you are right. Same for the handles... also agree on the grilles...
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